Built by French Army more than 100 years ago, the biggest cannon station of the region at the time now turns the National Historic Site, which is reminiscent of the colonial era and attracts dozen of curious travelers to explore.
Located 100m above sea level on the slope of Nui Lon (The Big Mountain, aka Tuong Ky – a 245m high mountain located in Vung Tau city, Ba Ria – Vung Tau province), the military complex was built in the late 19th century and completed in 1905, along with other “big gun” stations like Nui Nho (Small Mountain) and Cau Da. It is noted that the construction of the total 23 cannons ranging from 140mm to 300mm in Vung Tau was done entirely by manual methods.
Each cannon in Nui Lon is made out of three parts: the barrel, the bracket and the rotating wheel. The gun barrel is more than 4m in length, while the bracket and rotating wheel allows the guns to raise/ lower the range and rotate 360 degree on the concrete base, respectively.
This artillery site placed 6 cannons, arranged in an arc towards the East Sea, on the platform down from the ground.
Production information of model and weight is written on the barrel of the cannon. Accordingly, these 6 cannons were produced from 1872 – 1876, more than 15 tons in weight, with the inside diameter of 240mm.
Behind each gun base lies the ammunition cellar and the gunner tunnel, linked together by a trench system made out of concrete and monolithic. An artillery command cellar was built in the shape of a bunker floating on the ground closeby.
200m to the west of the artillery station is an artillery shell, also known as a mine shaft. These are two tunnels that are dug into the mountain bed. In 1944, the Japanese army used this tunnel to store mines to block Ganh Rai Bay and Vung Tau estuary.
During the anti-French period (1945 – 1954), Vung Tau army also secretly took dozens of mines here to fight back the enemy. The site now (2021) is accessible to public with paved road, starting on 444 street near beautiful Ben Da church.
You also have an opportunity to take a cruise discovering one of three largest artificial lakes in S-shaped country.
Constructed on Chay River (sông Chảy), Yen Binh district, Yen Bai province, this is the very first Vietnam-built hydropower plant, which was assisted by the former USSR, now the Russian Federation. The plant commenced construction on August 19th 1964 and inaugurated on October 5th 1971, when the first unit was commissioned. Thereafter, the second and third units were commissioned on March 10th 1972 and May 19th 1972, respectively.
The dam by the Thac Ba lake
The construction of this hydrodam also gave birth to Thac Ba Lake, one of three largest artificial lakes in Vietnam and well-known for its diverse ecosystem. Thac Ba reservoir covers a total area of 23.400 ha, of which 19.05 ha is water area and the remaining 4.35ha of islets on the Reservoir.
Thac Ba Lake, one of three largest artificial lakes in Vietnam and well-known for its diverse ecosystem.
Significantly, this man-made lake houses 1,331 islands and hills with various ecological environments. The water in the lake reflects vividly the surrounding ancient forest, creating a blue and clear background of the water.
This lake surprised me at the first sight, since in the map, it bears an interesting resemblance to other “archipelago” lakes I’ve been to, like the majestic Tà Đùng lake, with the natural beauty of original forest and thousands of islands and rocky mountains. Some typical sightseeing spots are Xuan Long and Thuy Tien cave, or Cao Bien and Chang Re mountain, and Trinh Nam island, to name a few.
The other part of Chay river behind the damThe landscape park was created for public use
Moreover, Thac Ba Lake is also a national vestige. My findings show that the Thu Vat Battle (trận Thu Vật) took place here in 1285, under the command of Tran Nhat Duat against Mongolian invaders. In modern times, during the resistance war against the American, Thuy Tien cave is the revolutionary base of Yen Bai provincial committee of The Resistance.
Surrounding Thac Ba reservoir, there are 12 ethnic minority groups such as Dao, Tay, Nung, Cao Lan, Phu La, who feature their own special and colourful traditional festivals.
The hydropower plant also sows seeds of a local town in the neighborhood, where the electricity operator – HPC Thac Ba invests some facilities like the sports-cultural centre and football field.
Under the dense canopy of trees in the landscape park by hydrodam
These days, the popular tourism activity in the lake is to embark on a cruise on a traditional boat, stop by islands and discover the particularities of this area: villagers paddle their boats, the exotic animals living around, the peaceful beauty of the huge lake as well as the lifestyle of the Dao among the thousands of islets.
A look at Chay river downstream in the late afternoon
Or simply just take a leisure stroll under the dense canopy of trees in a well-planned landscape park by hydrodam, or have a seat in a local vendor and watch the sun rise and set on the mirror-like lake surface on a nice day and enjoy the very special peace of the atmosphere.
A weekend getaway selected by French, just 80km from Hanoi.
Tam Dao is such a well-known destination thanks to its poetic scenery and spectacular cool climate all year round. Its name means three highest mountains (or “islands” on the cloud) named as Thien Thi, Thach Ban and Phu Nghia, which constitutes a basin where the cloudy town is situated, just a stone’s throw away from the borderline of two provinces Vinh Phuc and Thai Nguyen.
Tam Dao town in the evening
People in the capital usually seek to travel here for leisure experience on the weekends, especially during the summertime and occasional hot days since the average temperature in Tao Dao is approximately 18 degrees at any season.
The location and climate here bear a surprising resemblance to Genting highland, which is less than 60km from Kuala Lumpur, the capital of Malaysia. However, the small Malaysian town houses a cluster of considerable high-end resorts, hotels and residences, as well as huge luxury plazas and recreations, while the infrastructure in Tam Dao is still in development with a diverse array of private-built villas, homestays and restaurants.
Welcome to the cloudy town
Travel from Hanoi to Tam Dao town: bus, drive or ride?
Due to the highly invested infrastructure, travelling back and forth between the tourism town and Hanoi is kinda convenient. This popular route is expectedly busy on the weekends, you’d better pick some weekdays instead. A cluster of busline operators are ready to carry you on budget for 50,000 – 70,000 vnd/ pax and up to 130,000 vnd/ pax for premium ride (usually labelled ‘limousine’ – the hell knows why) for one-way ticket. Just hop on the bus, take a nap for an hour and open your eyes to witness the little “sleeping beauty” Tam Dao town.
Driving a car to Tam Dao town these days is super convenient with quick and clear route: From Nhat Tan bridge, follow Vo Nguyen Giap road (AH14) – (same route to Noi Bai airport), then into the Noi Bai – Lao Cai expressway, and out at the intersection with Highway 2B.
Lacking of proper parking space is still a problem in the tourism town
For riders, the journey is also no big deal (but still tricky a bit and requires opening the map app often as there is no straightforward route). The shortest route I recommend is to follow Highway 2A – Nguyen Tat Thanh road – DT31 – Highway 2B.
The main road connecting to the town – Highway 2B is beautiful and wide with clear lanes divided (but its middle thin strip was pretty bad during my ride in April, 2021). At the end of the highway, there is only one beautifully-paved climb to Tam Dao, about 10km long with steep slope drive (ascending sharply upwards the town at 1,000m high latitude) and continuous hairpin turns, requiring steady steering.
It is also greatly noticed that Tam Dao town is actually located on the basin formed by mountains higher on the east, and the road follows a mountain crest on the western side of the whole range. As a result, the best time to ride or drive to the town is in the late afternoon, so that you are at the climb in time for a gorgeous sunset on clear days. I also urge you to admire the sunset when you are in town. Bet it would be worth your efforts.
the accommodation in town is not fully indexed on booking platforms – search on site to get good price
How to find accommodation in Tam Dao, smartly?
You should have a little deep pocket to consider accommodations in Tam Dao which range from 400,000 – 700,000 VND/ night on weekdays while some villas or premium homestays cost up to 1,500,000 vnd. All might rocket during holidays and weekends, so don’t be surprised with the findings when you seek cheap accommodations on various booking platforms.
Making reservations in advance to grab your rooms quickly is definitely recommended since the availability is extremely scarce in the town which is small yet a victim of overtourism. Imagine just a wave of eager tourists flock, there will possibly be few rooms left. I still remember how aggressively crowded it was at the central park during the holiday. Tourist next to tourist, motel next to hotel (and) next to homestay, food stall next to restaurant. The little signs written “fully booked” hung at the doors and gates.
It is interesting that the accommodation in town is not fully indexed on booking platforms, which means travellers actually have opportunities to get a bed as long as you spend time to seek and the good luck finds you.
The town is often aggresively packed during holidays
What to do in (and around) Tam Dao town
Sightseeing activities are very promising in and around the mountainous town, which may take you the whole time on the weekend.
Tam Dao ancient church (Nhà thờ đá)
Built in 1937, this intact structure joins many French buildings left in the town, most of which were almost destroyed during the wartime. It is such a fantastic site with a nice view to watch all of Tam Dao nature, as well as take part in religious ceremonies of Christianity.
Telecommunication tower (Tháp truyền hình)
The 93m-high tower is located on the Mang Chi peak (Đỉnh Máng Chì) of Thien Nhi mountain at 1400m high. The trail up to the mountain is quite challenging yet romantic with a dozen kinds of flowers that may surprise you: Orchid, mexican sunflower and a handful of other wildflowers. The spot provides a panoramic vista towards vast stunning surrounding areas of clouds, mountains, forests & villages.
Silver Waterfall (Thác Bạc)
At the height of 50m, this attraction is the most beautiful waterfall in Tam Dao. Hidden in a mountain, the romantic waterfall also offers a nice watch towards surrounding valleys.
Cloud Bridge (Cầu Mây) and Sky Gate (Cổng Trời)
While Sky Gate is within a walk from French Church, Cloud Bridge is located right at the conjunction of the side road and main drive. Both offer the visitors a worthy experience: spectacular panorama of surroundings in clear sky as well as humid days with “sea of cloud” by chance.
Tam Dao Tinh Vien Van Son (Chùa Vân)
Located by the slope drive upwards the town, The impressive pagoda was built in 2009 with a religiously peaceful atmosphere along with the beauty of green surroundings. In particular, you can also stay overnight here.
Tam Dao National Park (Vườn quốc gia Tam Đảo)
Tam Dao National Park houses a diverse array of flora and fauna, consisting of hundreds of species, with a great deal of rare and valuable plants and animals. An interesting place attracts those who love forest hiking. For convenience, you can book a Tam Dao trekking tour to conquer peaks in Tam Dao national park or take part in bird watching tours for indigenious rare bird types or insect or plant research tours as well.
Tam Dao golf & resort (sân golf Tam Đảo)
If you are a golfer and seek some leisure to pamper, it’d better take a look at this course. Its ideal location among the mountains of Tam Dao offers year-round chilled temperatures and gives golfers a more comfortable feeling despite the fact that it is a tropical Asian golf course!
Opened in 2007 at the foot of the mountain en route to Tam Dao town, The Tam Dao golf course was designed with the natural land contours and local flora and fauna to create a visual treat for golfers. Massive mountains in the backdrop frame each hole, giving the best impression to seduce golfer’s eyes. The golf course plays through a series of lakes and streams, making it one of the most scenic golf courses near Hanoi. In case you don’t play, a sip of coffee in the clubhouse with the open view towards the green golf course is also worth your morning.
Xa Huong Lake (Hồ Xạ Hương)
Hidden among mountains which are close to the golf course, Xa Huong lake is a great choice when you want to immerse yourself in nature and moments of peace, as wilderness is the most attractive feature of the lake. In fact, Xa Huong is an artificial lake built in 1984, covering an area of 83 hectares. Both tourists and locals find it an amazing hub for leisure fishing, entertaining with Stand-Up Paddleboarding and absolutely camping on weekends. Don’t miss it!
A memorable ride can fool you in the mysterious mist even in daylight, en route to the resort from the French colonial era with dozens of old houses now abandoned.
For me, traveling by motorbike to the resort area of Mau Son mountain range (dãy núi Mẫu Sơn) was a tough, rough but irresistible ride, especially when wheels were rolling on a small road side by majestic cliffs.
Turning my head and I admired a panoramic vista towards green slopes dotted by local terrace fields with one or two lodges nearby sometime. The area is said to comprise up to 80 mountains one after another, boast rich flora and fauna with 1,500 wild plants and animals, and also home to a small population of the ethnic minority groups of Yao, Tay and Nung.
But I could not be distracted like that for long, as the road condition was not well maintained, the potholes are frequent obstacles, along with U-shaped curves, misty scenes ahead and slippery surfaces due to the high humidity, coupled with the considerable chill in the air freezing my hands on the handlebar. Pre-checking your motorbike/ car thoroughly before the trip is absolutely a must. Imagine the vehicle breaks down in the middle of nowhere – that’s a terrible situation you would’nt like to come across at all, trust me.
The closer to the top Mau Son resort, the more we came across deserted villas, resorts and wine cellars built by the French in the 1930s, all immersed mysteriously in rusty mist. That’s such a memorable ride to challenge the rider’s maneuverability.
Welcome to a French resort once upon the time
A popular story spreading on the internet tells that, around seventy years ago before the road to the resort existed, there were only two ways to the top: walking or riding horse. At that time, this panoramic area attracted the French to Mau Son for relaxation, since the weather was cool all year round. In addition, the Dear Mountain View of the northeast was the gateway to China, where the French already built a military base in the early 20th century to guard the border.
To make way for the French settlement, the site’s original inhabitants, a group of the Dao (Yao) ethnic minority, were relocated. Only authorized personnel were permitted to enter the base. Later, Mau Son tourists were welcome to the hill station. The great milestone was marked in January 1936, when Dr. O.Pflot, a student of the famous bacteriologist Dr. Alexandre Yersin, visited Mau Son. Some local people believe that the doctor first came to Mau Son to collect traditional medicinal herbs cultivated in the region. Later He petitioned Mr Tholace, the then French governor of the north, for permission to build tourist villas at the site. In 1936, he got the go-ahead to buy land and start construction, which required thousands of local people working on the project, from breaking to carrying stones to build a number of massive villas.
Today, these villas have crumbled to ruins. Blocks of moss-covered stone are scattered throughout the site, and lie among the old foundations, where it’s still possible to identify the houses’ former kitchens, fireplace and staircases. Like a sleeping beauty, after almost five decades, it was all but forgotten. Until 1987, motorbikes were not even allowed onto the torturous road up the mountain like a bending snake.
Mau Son was waking up eventually when the residents of the surrounding area first came to admire the views, followed by visitors from China and lowland Vietnam.
When is best time to travel Mau Son?
For “snow hunters” – the tropical-born travelers who rarely see white cold flakes, the winter spans from November to March with the average temperature ranging from 7 – 13 Celsius degrees. Sometimes it drops down to below zero (and snowfall as a result) in January, so this is absolutely the best time to travel to Mau Son mountain to admire miraculous snowfall.
Summertime, from April to October, often experiences foggy scenery because of the heavy rain coupled with a temperature range around 15 degrees. We travelled to Mau Son on late April and the journey was very tough after all. Travelling should be most pleasant on September – the shoulder season!
Courtesy of Isaac
Best way to travel to Mau Son
Just 30 kilometers to the north-east of Lang Son city, you can rent a motorbike at the hostels and ride yourself to the mountain, following 4B highway then turning to the provincial road DT237B. Riding until you see an intersection where a old mansion named “Đền cổ Mẫu Sơn” located on the left, turn that way to the top.
Following 4B highway then turning to the provincial road DT237B. Courtesy of Trang HinhThe creepy mist surrounding Mau Son ancient temple (Đền cổ Mẫu Sơn) during our trip. Courtesy of Isaac
Driving will be very challenging, so be well prepared before departure as the road is narrow, dotted with continuous u-turns from time to time, rough terrain also, and possibly experiences unexpected conditions owing to the severe weather. Ultimately, drivers should keep a moderate speed while watching for vehicles coming from the opposing direction.
What to see in Mau Son
Mau Son wine cellar
The very first attraction to us was the wine cellar “Mẫu Sơn Đỉnh” with the architecture look like a miniature of a castle. It was a pity for us that the gate was closed silently, and everything was dimmed in heavy fog. There are here a couple of sets of stone tables and chairs, playing an ideal for a rest stop to the top. We couldn’t help posing some photographs ourselves there, resting among the heavy fog before departure to town at the top.
Courtesy of Isaac
According to the letters on the outside wall, the wine here was made of the pure water from the mountain which enjoys the comfortable chill all year round at Mau Son 1000 meter high in altitude, combined with the know-how in fermentation and distillation of Yao ethnic group as well as the technology from Scotland. I definitely have to try on my trip to Mau Son next time.
The cloudy resort
Due to covid impact, the town was less visited recently by eager travelers. Indeed, Mau Son mountain is well-known for its distinctive feature: snow. In a tropical country like Vietnam, snow is usually a good reason for any slightly high altitude destinations to attract curious wanderers, like Sapa, Lao Cai or Meo Vac, Ha Giang in Vietnam, during unusual extreme cold weather. The thick fog coupled with the serious lack of visitors turned this place into a “ghost town” scene like in horror movies, which partly attracted our curiosity.
Shelter in a local vendor’s hut and heat the body by warm food. Courtesy of Isaac
What we did enjoy (like most of the time traveling back and forth the mountainous routes of Northern Vietnam) was to shelter in a local vendor’s hut and heat our body by warm food like roasted meat, sausage, sweet potato, egg and dried fish, while sipping hot tea (sometime it’s not actually tea but a mix of various indigenous herbs good for health).
The vendors usually sell local specialties, like wild lemon, hand-picked plum, harvested honey and even spirits.
Less tourists meant less stores and hotels open, so finding a toilet in that situation was tricky for us, too. We had to ask around, navigate through the misty neighborhood and luckily find one (not well cleaned indeed). The service infrastructure in the low season of tourism was terrible, at least, for us!
Staying overnight at Mau Son resort: Should or Should not
We parked by a homestay. It looked old, abandoned with blurred windows, a little rusty in metal components – all still in progress of degradation due to the long exposure to the high humidity. The situation was universal among most of the buildings in the area. While praising the ancient architecture and basic comforts at reasonable prices, most guests having stayed overnight complained about the degradation of the common accommodation at Mau Son.
Limited to some local specialty dishes like sturgeon fish and chicken, the food served at the local lodges also costs considerably (double or even triple priced) due to the isolated location of Mau Son resort. I bet one experience that would be very ideal during a chill and mist here: herbal bathing (we did several days later in Sapa and it was definitely note-worthy, like bathing in a hot spring but also absolutely different).
In our case, we planned to stay overnight at first, but our reality proved it was not ideal. The isolation of the town meant we had few choices of entertainment here at night. Worse, the thick fog blurred our vision that we could only see within several meters even in the late afternoon (we had to use the location feature of the map app to navigate around the town, imagine what would happen when it went dark!) In addition, the fusty old hotels weren’t attractive enough to get over the obsessive seclusion and high price of food (we were travelling on a budget).
I wish to come back on sunny days, when everything is dry and comfortable with spectacular vista, instead of a misty “ghost town” like the creepy ‘Silent hill’ video game series.
The telecommunication tower was ‘lost’ in the mist
If you have serious intention to stay, the consideration limited to a few motels and hotels like Hương Sơn, 9 Gian, Cẩm Tú Cầu, Bạch Trà Sơn, Xứ Anh Đào and Yến Yến. No outstanding one, they are all so-so.
Other attractions nearby
Yao Village
In Khuổi Cấp, Yao ethnic community is believed to successfully preserve its own customs and tradition. On a daily basis, visitors will come across Yao women wearing black trousers with broad legs and hems embroidered with yellow patterns, while men wear black coats decorated with embroidered thick wool thread lines of light green colour. The herbal bathing is also a must here, beside local alcohol drink production.
Mau Son Ancient Spiritual Site
Located at 1,190 meters high above sea level in Lặp Pịa commune, Mau Son ancient spiritual site (Linh địa cổ Mẫu Sơn) worships the guardian of Mau Son mountains, requires a long adventurous hike from the village, following the trail cutting through primitive forest, whose the scenic landscape is worth a try. To reach the site, departing from Lang Son city, following 4B Highway to DT236, then head to Lặp Pịa school. From here, you’d better have teachers here hire a local guide and well prepare for a 2 – 3 hour trek.
Sung Peng Waterfall
This off the beaten track Sung Peng waterfall (Thác Sùng Pèng) is located less than one kilometer away as the crow flies straight ahead from the resort town, but the ride is another story as it might take hours to circle around the mountain to reach the fall. Considering a few photographs taken here, it is suggested that this place may still rarely be visited by tourists. What is it promising? The landscape is stunning for sure: a high thin fall flows water like a dedicated silk during summertime, down dozens of rock levels, surrounded by the indigenous wilderness. I bet camping here is definitely great for nature lovers. Let’s add the box in to-travel list now!
An extremely compelling experience awaits you on Hòn Sơn.
One of my favorites during trip on Hòn Sơn is to enjoy swimming in turquoise sea with diverse marine world and also take part in continually trekking on steep trails through dense forests with giant and ancient trees to reach the top of the mountains and enjoy panoramic vista towards the coastal road bending like a snake, clusters of coconut, emerald sea ornate with rocks like eggs in various sizes, all under such a blue clear sky. In Hòn Sơn, these activities are possible to be experienced within one day. Fantastic!
My typical schedule with a trekking option in mind: wake up early at 5:30 for sunrise, then have a cup of coffee at 6:30 while reading news online (the 4G coverage in the campsite is awesome). Around 7:00 (maybe later if the news is so interesting), it’s breakfast time and a lazy break to automatically sort out new stuff in the stomach. Full energy, full eagerness, let’s get trekking: I will follow trails to the top, enjoy the stunning view, return to the accomodation after 2-4 hour trekking to have a small lunch before swim in turquoise water and sunbathe on a big rock with coconut. That’s sooo nice!
During my trip on Hòn Sơn, I picked Ma Thiên Lãnh peak for the first day, and Ông Rồng for the day later. There’s no identical experience. That’s why you should try both, but don’t be too excited to rush hard: it would destroy your mood. One trek per day is a perfect schedule. Your body needs an entire rejuvenation, your memory should forget a bit so that two treks wouldn’t look too familiar!
The guidance is quite specific in both route, so it is unlikely that you would get lost unintentionally. The trails are clear path, with small signboards hung interestingly on the trees, some are even made of wood with colorful hand-written letters. They plays not only the guidance but also raising trekkers’ awareness of protecting local environment by not littering during the trip.
As you would hike through primitive forests, it is very cool and moisture most of the time: at noon, you are even under dappled shades of the tall plants. Your nose will be attracted by good fresh smell, while the natural sounds – bird, cicada, crawling swarm of ant and so on – echo closeby.
One attention: it is advised to start the trek before 16:00 as the light rays rarely penetrate through forest canopy with high density, which increases the risk of getting lost as well as low maneuverability in the pitch darkness.
Beside the similarity, each trekking route also carries some fascinating distinctive features, revealed below, firstly, Ma Thiên Lãnh. (you may like to use the pictures for guiding reference).
Ma Thiên Lãnh trekking route
On Hòn Sơn locate 7 mountains attached one another, among which Ma Thiên Lãnh becomes the most popular as the highest peak of the isle at 450m high above mean sea level, as well as the most storied mythologies. It is rumoured that once upon the time, the “fairy yard” at the peak and cluster of caves were the shelters of anonymous anchorites to practice meditation. Time flew and all mysterious stories became bygones. Nowadays, Ma Thiên Lãnh plays a “must” experience for whoever visiting Hòn Sơn and the well-positioned guidance aids more attraction to this well-known sight.
I started my trek from the entrance near Xếp Beach (Bãi Xếp) with more natural settings than ones close to the downtown. However, at very first steps, you will be served with a series of cement (or neatly stack-rocked) staircase as there are few residents living on the slope and growing plantation of mango, banana, soursop and so on.
At the very beginning of the journey, you will notice different faunas, this kind of pineapple includedThe guide signs are drawn very close to one another so that the trekkers are unlikely to get lost (unless the visibility is low when it gets dark)(Left) “Thạch Tiền stream 250m”; (Right) “100m”“The legendary tree – 500m”(Left) “Hammock rest stop – 50m – Thạch Tiền stream”; (Right) “Ma Thiên Lãnh 1100m”The trail leads through the local plantation: do not havest the produce, such as banana or mangoThe hammock rest stop of an old lady. You may take a short break and enjoy some refreshment while swinging at ease on the hammocksThere are even 4 guide signs at one area – no chance to get lost!The stacked trunks with natural holes on the surfaceThạch Tiền stream, where pipelines are installed by the locals to collect water for daily use“500m”“Legendary tree – 500m”The stunning scale of the legenary treeThe intersection: Go left (the alternative entrace close to the downtown) or go right (continue to the top of the mountain)The trail becomes more challenging due to the erosion. “Dangerous area”, says the sign.(Left) “Dangerous area”; (Right) “Come on, I <3 U”A passageway is made magically of two giant stone block, one of which is an ideal shelter for campingRed words says: “standing rock – Towards Ma Thiên Lãnh”(Left) “2/3 already, c’mon folks”Follow the arrow, it’s very close to the top“Are you hungry”, asks letters on the rock.(Left) “Welcome”“(You) made it successfully”A religious poem written on the rock, which is rumouredly of anchoritesA narrow passage in the cave is naturally set up by giant rocksClimbing on the ladder, then rock by rock. There is actually an altar of worship insideThe final ladder to the top!
More pictures at the Ma Thiên Lãnh peak:
A speedboat far far away
On the way back, I went down at the aforementioned intersection, followed the trail to the entrance close to the downtown and was very surprised at the restaurants and rest stops along the path. The signs were also very clear for guidance!
Back to the intersection and follow the alternative route to downwardCrossing a small stream to reach a pagoda. There is a steep concrete driveway here for motorbike traveling downward, or you can follow the sign along the trail to the local’s rest stopThe path is clean and clearStretching feet on the hammock at Mr Thanh’s rest stop
Mr Thanh’s rest stop made a deep impression on me: so natural friendly, so cool with tiny colorful decoration as well as a menu of varrious and delicious mountain chicken dishes, from hot pot to steam or stir, soup and salad.
A washbasin is installed on the stump, with running water from the streams and a big wild mushroom (it look likes wooden) at the footTiny handmade flower pots around the rest stopDecorated swing for the selfiesA cycad tree (cây thiên tuế) in the garden. “Cycads are seed plants with a very long fossil history that were formerly more abundant and more diverse than they are today” (Wikipedia)
Tips: To get fresh and hot food plates on arrival, remember to call for booking before hand (at least 30 minutes) so that the friendly host (they are a family actualky) is able to well prepare and serve you at best.
My recommendation for a short break without chicken meals in case you don’t plan to have lunch here: swinging on a hammock with a cool coconut!
Hammock relax or a table full of hot dishes of mountain chicken?
Leaving the rest stop to continue downward, I noticed there were plenty of artificial constrution on this side, so it is generally less natural.
An observation hut on stilts within a garden of cashew treeA male mountain chicken walking aroundBushes of bamboo and pipelines collects water from streamsA curve at the end of the path, which joins the motorbike route from the pagodaA homestay is being constructed on the hillside with the spectacular vista of the island’s natureThe entrance is not too far from the downtown, where an old lady sell refreshment and you can aid her life by buying stuffs
Tons of amazing things to see and do on this tropical paradise and this Hon Son island travel guide dare get you through the jungle of spectacular spots!
Why Hon Son island, Vietnam?
At the first sight, I was knocked down by its dramatically majestic beauty: pristine beach lined with coconuts, well, there’s indeed a forest of coconuts on the island.
Disembarking from the express ferry of the Superdong operator, I was spontaneously feeling the dynamic life of the island while walking on the bridge toward the crowded central residence.
The islanders and tourists moving fast back and forth the backbone of the boat dock. Not so far, the platoon of colorful fishing boats anchored a couple hundred of meters offshore, floating up and down, or moving around the turquoise water. Another adventure awaits!
Coastal Road on Hon Son island, Vietnam
The first thing I would like to do on an island is to ride around. Whatever it was Con Dao or Phu Quy isle (but the larger ones like Phu Quoc or Cat Ba may require a whole one or two days, it’s still worth it after all).
The short journeys around give me the best sense of the island, whether this destination is pristine or overcrowded, how its seaside scenery looks like.
So a small island like this Hon Son island, I would recommend you to take a short circuit around the island first, just a couple of hours but it’s full of interest, most are best spots to experience, like an appetizer before the main courses in next days.
Riding on this road is such a remarkable experience that you won’t want to miss any chance. Like Nam Du or Hon Tre island nearby, the road is closed round and every part has its own fun and interest. I will tell you in the clockwise order, from the harbour first.
The Southwestern Harbour (Cầu cảng Bãi Nhà)
This little town is your very first glance at the local living of Hon Son island after disembarking from the express ferry. From here, you can call the host to transit to the accommodation then get a rental motorbike to travel around right away.
The town is also where you can buy most goods in the local grocery. On weekdays, the night market here is quiet, but things change on the weekend, when the locals open their various food stalls to serve the tourists.
You may get attracted by this colorful decorated bar like this on Hon Son island!
Moving away from the harbour and the landscape changes gradually from a crowded tourist hub to a quieter space, with shallow beach, lazy waves in sea and the rock platform protruding to make small capes. The trees on the roadside are ideal shelters to hide from the glowing sun at noon. Why not take a sip on some nice place like the little highly-decorated bar on picture above.
Rái Cá homestay
As one of the first homestay on the island, Rái Cá homestay looks like a travel complex, featuring an outdoor restaurant by the cliff, where you can pose on a swing (but be careful) along with various styled rooms on the other side. I prefer to chill here most of the day: have breakfast in the morning and get some chilled beer while admiring the sunset. The painting and doodles and writing are all funny and chill.
The fishing village
This is where you find the most of the local living. I got lost for the first (and second and third) time, as the map app was useless due to the density of residents and the overlapped roofs make it impossible to draw any road lines when watching from the above. This is where I buy some food and beverages to enjoy the best sunset spot on the island, just nearby.
Sunset watching spot
Following the coastal road just a few hundreds of meters, there you see a yard with lying rocks where you have a sit and watch the sun go down gorgeously at the end of the day, when the fishing boat moves back home, drawing lines on the water.
Bãi Đá
Located in the north of the island, this is not an ideal place for swimming as it is stacked densely by hundreds of rocks. But this view is stunning for posing on the rock (I traveled solo so there was no beautiful model to test). As my experience tell that there is a lot of sea creatures living around these rocks to explore and watch (or you may want to collect for a delicious grill in the evening at homestay). There are also premium resorts situated here.
North Harbour (Bãi Bấc)
There are two harbours but this one in the North is quieter while the other in the South is more touristy as it welcomes the express ferry full of tourists. Your frame should hardly overwhelmed by people moving around. The landscape is calm and still. Some local people come here for fishing. This area is also near the entrance to the hiking trail to Ông Rồng mountain top.
The mountainous road
There’s a route breaking through the island, connecting the Northern and Southern Harbours. The road is pretty steep, providing the panoramic view from the top of the island. This road sometimes gets kinda bad, making a temporary interruption (I got it on my first visit to the island). At the top is Hon Son waterfall, but you can only see its beauty during the rainy season.
There is also Thanh Sơn Garden (entrance fee 50,000 vnd/ pax) on the top. Like its name, Thanh Son is like a decoration garden for photography purposes only, there’s nothing more special. There’s a farm named Phú Quang building nearby (2021), hopefully opening for visitors when it’s finished. The top provides a view to the Southern Harbour, highlighting the big reservoir at the center.
Bo Beach (Bãi Bò)
This beach is close to the Bấc harbour, with the signature figure of turtle painting on the big rock. Some budget guest houses to book like Island Homestay, Homestay Beach, Hòn Sơn Seaview. All are close to the beach, reasonable prices and friendly host.
Bang beach (Bãi Bàng)
This is the best beach on the island with the long sandy beach. You should buy at least some beverages like coconut (40,000 vnd) instead of “service charge” for entrance. The host also offers boat tours for fishing and snorkeling.
Golden Camp Hon Son
This is the best campsite on Hon Son island, Kien Giang. I stayed here for 4 days and had most of the experience at night here. Down to the sea is a small sand beach full of rocks, where you can do a swim and free dive to explore marine life. Staff is so friendly and helpful, and we had an amazing time playing and talking. I love this and highly recommend this campsite for camping enthusiasts and nature lovers. You got best of both world here.
Along with Bãi Bàng, this is another sandy beach, good for swimming. From here you may see the colossal electricity columns line from the mainland.
Phuong Breakfast Bistro (Điểm tâm Phượng)
This is just like any breakfast store, but I mark it as a point of interest because this is near the entrance to the hiking trail toward Ma Thiên Lãnh summit. So you may like to have breakfast like me here or pack some drinks before the trip to the top. This bistro also features a view to the sea and is very romantic at sunrise. There are cute doves flapping around as well. The food is good, around 35,000 vnd/ bowl of seafood noodle. That’s pretty delicious!
Protruding rocky platform
It seems there will be a building situated here, but for now (2021), it is just a rocky and plain platform, where you can pitch a campfire and enjoy the panoramic view.
Sao Bien coffee and homestay
A good spot for sunset watching and nightlife in Hon Son island.
Ma Thien Lanh trail entrance
Out of the coffee store, toward the town, you will see a fork: Turn right and the other entrance to Ma Thien Lanh peak on the right, marked by an old lady vendor. Buy her some stuff and she will help you guard the bike if any.
Back to the Sao Bien coffee, keep going on the coastal road down to the town. The journey around the island ends.
Hon Son island accommodation
The travel accommodations on the island are pretty cute: the original campsite that seduced me to stay for days, there’s also a lifestyle hostel great for breakfast. I love every inch of the island and you may spend a week here actually despite its limited dimension. For convenience, I collect all contact and booking links here for reference and price check.
The Southern Harbour
Like Nam Du or Hon Tre, the tourist hub is a stone’s throw from the harbour. This is where you can find good accommodation like several Hon Son island hotels in line with other coffee shops and bistros, along with every service available to meet traveler’s needs. This area has the most density of accommodation on the island, price is various.
Nhà Nghỉ Vân Tiến – The guesthouse located on the coastal road and has a good view to the sea. Check the price now!
Nhà nghỉ Bảo Hân – the guesthouse is at the heart of the town, close to the Superdong ticket and central park, just a stone’s throw to the night market. Check the price now!
Nhà nghỉ Yến Linh (location/phone)– guesthouse is on the coastal road, few step from town market. Friendly host with reasonable price (250,000 vnd/ single room).
Fishing Village Residence – Hon Son homestay
Rái Cá homestay (location/phone/page)– One of the pioneers brought the concept of hostel/ homestay to this pristine island. Located by a cliff in the southwest of the island, so I see it does make sense to buy a beer and snack and enjoy the sunset here. The homestay is developed into a complex, including a bar and restaurant. You can have a delicious breakfast here.
Sake homestay – The homestay is located at the heart of the village and pretty confusing to reach at first. The room is comfortable, overviewing the cape far away with the spectacular sea landscape. Check the price now!
Nhà nghỉ Kim Anh (phone)- A guesthouse inside the fishing village, it’s actually a coffee shop which also serve breakfast, the local people have drinks on daily morning. There’s a foodstall opposite selling vegetarian meal. Friendly staff.
Hon Son island resort – Northwest area
There are local resorts that lie quietly from the road, which you have to walk down on steep slopes paved by stacked rock to turn into the lifestyle stairway. The price is mid-range to premium and the facilities like the bar or beach in these ones mostly are closed only for the hotel guests.
Nhà trọ Tám Ca (website/phone)- Good seaview, no hot shower yet, quiet ambience, rocky beach. Food is good, mid-range price.
Nhà nghỉ Bãi Đá (phone)- The thumbs-up are the sandy beach and seaside view. But service charge for cooking food is also pretty high if you travel on a budget. The staff is generally reviewed unfriendly.
Norther Harbour – Bãi Bắc – Bãi Bò
This quiet area features a couple of cute and budget-friendly accommodations to book, such as:
Thanh Duyên homestay (location/phone/website): this accommodation is very close to the entrance trail route to Ông Rồng mountain top.
Bấc’s Homestay (phone/location): Friendly host, clean and well-decorated rooms with common lounge for guests, but the seaview is limited.
Thương’s House (phone/location): brand new homestay in the area (2021) with white appearance. Well-decorated with styled furniture. Friendly host with good service. Seaview in some rooms.
Hòn Sơn seaview (location/phone): The guest house is located near the Turtle Rock, friendly host.
Bang Beach
Bai Bang resort – This resort features the most beautiful beach on the island. Check the price now!
Ma Thien Lanh Trails
Sohara Seamountain Bungalow (aka Lamien Lodge & Homestay or Mango House) – This bungalow is located on a very steep slope, so you should have a xe ôm (taxi motorbike) to ride you up. Heavy luggage would be punished hard, that’s a warning. Check the price now!
At the Eastern edge of the Southern town
Sao Bien Homestay & Coffee – This accommodation is also a beautiful coffee shop, great to watch sunset and the Southern town from far away. Check the price!
Hon Son beaches
Bo beach (Bãi Bò, Bãi Bấc, Bãi Bắc)
This beach is next to the Northern harbour. The sand is nice but some places are dotted with small rocks. The area full of public coffee and restaurant so you may enjoy a good price here
Bang beach (Bãi Bàng)
This is the best beach on the island, now closed inside a local resort. There’s no entrance but visitors should buy something instead, like a coconut.
Xep beach (bãi Xếp, bãi Cây Dừa Nằm)
There are strange lying coconuts here which the name refers to. There’s also a resort here so the entrance fee is to buy some stuff.
Hon Son harbours
Along with the sandy beach, some areas on the island have shallow waters enough for safe swimming like around the harbours. In the afternoon, children play in the water near the site. They swim and dive, as well as collect some kinds of seafood.
Hon Son waterfall
If you love to find the waterfall, better find it the the top of mountainous road in the rainy season, as it’s “hidden” in the dry season (I didn’t see it at all, as there’s no water at all).
Hon Son hiking trails
There are two note-worthy hiking trails in Hon Son that I would definitely recommend you to experience. Depend on your schedule on the island to take one or both hikes below (one per day should be best):
For the breakfast, you may have noodle at the homestay or traveling to the harbour or residence nearby for very reasonable food, such as a bowl of macaroni (nui) like this.
If you are around the Southern Harbour, I bet you will come across a bistro which serve the rice with grilled pork ribs (sườn nướng) and Steamed Egg Meatloaf (chả trứng hấp) like Cơm tấm Sài Gòn. If you can not consume the local taste food, this one is the best option. The price is mid range. (45,000 vnd/ dish)
A little snack for lunch while I was pedaling around the Southern town. This stall is located near the reservoir, selling fried chicken and milk tea with super cheap price (for poor student on the island, I guess. I travel around Vietnam and there are two area usually experience the local price: market and school)
Mountain chickens are the specialty on the island and you should have the dish when hiking to Ma Thien Lanh summit, where people feed chicken and hot serve. The cooking process may be disturbing so to avoid the killing sound and long wait, you had better call the booking number to arrange a meal beforehand.
Some homestay complex like Rái Cá homestay serving food and drink all day also.
Nightlife on Hon Son island
Most of the time at night I spend on coffee, bar and night market along the coastal road part in the South.
I watched the sunset at Sao Biển homestay & coffee, this place also the best spot to observe the town from far above.
The night market is crowded and has more vendors on the weekend. There’s an old lady selling smoothies outdoors here and I was her customer mostly every night, enjoying the fresh sea breeze and the starry sky.
Rái Cá homestay is a good place for hangouts at night. There is even a bar newly opening nearby, just a stone’s throw away, named Quán nhà An. I had a chance to attend the opening, drink some cocktails and sing some songs along with an acoustic guitar band. The vibe is awesome. Highly recommended!
The best itinerary for a trip to Hon Son
Itinerary for weekends in Hon Son
Office workers with fixed time may prefer to spend two day on the weekend. So you should start from the Friday (or extended to Thursday)
The night before: Departure from Saigon to Rach Gia on sleeper bus like Phuong Trang busline or take flight to Rach Gia airport in the early morning and transit to Rach Gia ferry port.
Day 1: Take a ferry from Rach Gia – Hon Son. At the Southern Harbour, you should call the host for transit to the homestay or hotel. Remember to get the return ticket at the Superdong office here, if you haven’t bought it. On day: Visit Bãi Bàng or Bãi Xếp – the best beaches on Hon Son, swimming and having coconuts. Then moving to the North for Bãi Bấc. In the sunset, ride to the view spot near the fishing village or Rái Cá homestay (or Sao Biển coffee), these are among the best spots for sunset on Hon Son island. Dinner time: visit the Southern Harbour for the best food stall available. Strolling around the town or visiting the bar near Rái Cá homestay or coffees.
Day 2: Watching sunrise in Bãi Bàng, Bãi Xếp or Golden Camp Hon Son. Then have breakfast in Phượng breakfast, ready for the hiking to the Ma Thien Lanh summit. It should take you around 3 – 4 hours. After finishing, you should check-out, have lunch near the harbour and be ready to embark on the express ferry back to Rach Gia.
(Day 3: in case you have an extended day
You may spend time on the mountainous road and fishing village, as well as another hiking trail to Ông Rồng summit near Bãi Bò)
Itinerary for a week in Hon Son
Day 1: Take your time at the homestay first, eat full and enjoy the beach nearby.
Day 2: Visit The Best beaches on Hon Son like Bãi Bàng, Bãi Xếp. You can book a boat tour here when traveling in a group.
Day 3: Watching sunrise on the Eastern side of the island. Have breakfast and hike to Ma Thien Lanh summit. Enjoy the sunset in Sao Biển coffee.
Day 4: Explore the mountain road: the homestay, the Thanh Son garden, the waterfall. Take your time on the trail to Ông Rồng summit (only 1-2 hour long). Swimming in Bãi Bấc.
Day 5: Visit the fishing village, take photographs, sip coffee in the shop with the neighborhood. Watch sunset in the spot nearby, have dinner in Rái Cá homestay and nightlife at the bar closeby.
Day 6: Take your time at the hotel/ homestay, swimming in your favorite beaches. Have dinner and buy some souvenirs at the night market.
Day 7: Pack the luggage, enjoy the breakfast and coffee. Ready for the trip to express ferry.
Budget reference
Rental bike: 200,000 vnd/ day
Budget-friendly single room: 200,000-250,000 vnd/ night
Coconut: 20,000 – 30,000 vnd
A Glass of Coffee: 20,000 vnd
A Glass of Smoothie: 25,000 vnd
A bowl of rice noodle (Breakfast): 25,000 – 35,000 vnd
Thing to notice: there’s no ATM in the island so cash is king! (On my island-hopping journey, from the nearby Hon Tre, I accidentally found this fact so I had to manage to withdraw money from a Agribank ATM in Hon Tre island. This is the ONLY ATM in the area, even in the main island in Nam Du Archipelago).
What to buy as souvenir in Hon Son island
Dried seafooood! I saw them put under the sun mostly everywhere near a fishing village and residence like Southern and Northern harbour or fishing village in the Southwest of the island.
Even from my eyes, the seafood here looks very fresh and yummy – that best souvenir for your family at home (assumedly your home is in Vietnam). All you need is to walk around the local market at the Southern harbour, where the local sell a lot of these.
How to travel to Hon Son by bike, car, flight and ferry
The island should only be reached from Rach Gia port, so you have to catch a bus, flight or take a road trip firstly from Ho Chi Minh City to Can Tho then to Rach Gia Port. Buy a ferry ticket to Hon Son and get onboard!
To plan the transportation from your location to the island, I recommend checking platform rome2rio to explore various options of airline, busline and ferry so save you tons of time and find out the overall estimated budget.
From Ho Chi Minh
By motorbike/ car
HCMC to Rach Gia
Presumably you were homestaying somewhere around Bui Vien neighborhood (that’s the most famous backpacker hub in HCMC, no doubt), now all you have to do is to ride following Vo Van Kiet boulevard (the scenic riverside route) to Highway 1A to Can Tho city. Turn right and follow Highway 91, then turn left to Highway 80 (for motorbike) or Expressway 02 (for car). The end of these straight lines meets Highway 61 (there’s also Rach Gia airport nearby), so turn right, following Nguyen Trung Truc street, then turn right again in the big Phan Thi Rang roundabout to 3 Tháng 2 street. Go to Cống Sông Tiên and the ferry port should be on the left hand.
If you don’t have a motorbike yet, only staying at HCMC for a week or so, renting is a good choice.
For rental motorbikes, the options are a dozen, you may reach the receptionists at your hotels, homestays or hostels in HCMC to ask for rental bikes. Or you may go directly to some motorbike rental services to get the best suit to your style (from semi manual, scooter, to real manual and big displacement motorbikes).
For rental car, there is a good app named Mioto. Better give it a try first.
By bus
I prefer the big operators for their most convenient service: they have wide transits. Transit gets you to the station, you get on a bus to Rach Gia station and ask for transit to Rach Gia ferry port (Cảng Rạch Giá). There are names like Phuong Trang busline (futabus) or Kumho Samco busline to consider. Check Rome2rio for best bus price and options.
By airline
Bamboo airline now offers the route Tan Son Nhat airport (Saigon) – Rach Gia airport flight for less than one hour. Check out the latest price and schedule on 12go.asia.
After landing on the Rach Gia airport, you can wave for taxi or motorbike taxi (xe ôm) to the Rach Gia ferry port. The distance is around 11km, so the fee for a taxi car should be approximately 150,000 – 200,000 vnd, motorbike taxi 100,000 – 150,000 vnd.
From Da Nang
There’s no direct flight from Da Nang Airport to Rach Gia airport yet: you had better take a flight from Da Nang city to Ho Chi Minh airport, then transit to Rach Gia airport city and transiting to Rach Gia ferry port like aforementioned suggestion.
From Ha Noi
There’s no direct flight from Noi Bai airport to Rach Gia airport (only transit to HCMC): you can check schedule and price as well as self-connect options via 12
In Hanoi, to save money, you can take airport bus number 86, departing from Ha Noi railway station to Noi Bai airport and vice versa, only 35,000 vnd/ pax – the cheapest transportation for solo travelers; traveling by group can book four-seater or seven-seater car for 200,000 vnd).
Express Ferry Rach Gia <-> Hon Son island
For the schedule and price, check rome2rio for up-to-date information to save time.
More information Rach Gia – Hon Son speed ferry route and Superdong online booking at Superdong website
Check the website for promo: from time to time, the ferry operator offers free of charge shipping cost for motorbikes if you buy a couple of tickets. I noticed a poster for this kind of promotion for the route Ha Tien – Phu Quoc.
Belows is my short review on the Superdong express ferry departing from Rach Gia then Hon Tre island en route to Hon Son.
The staff will distribute you a bottle of water (sometimes it has an interesting taste) along with an alcohol tissue to wash your hands to prevent the covid (do not wash your face). The cabin is equipped with a fixed monitor displaying movies for entertainment.
When the ferry is offshore for around 5′, you can stay on your seat within the air-conditioned cabin or go out to the airy lounge at the back of the ferry. Be noticed that the wind is pretty strong there so it had better hold the things carefully or they may be blown away into the blue sea.
The lounge is my favorite spot whenever I am on the ferry. I can enjoy the breeze and birds above the blue sea with a majestically panoramic view. When the ferry is approaching close to the island, the sea is dotted with fishing boats traveling back and forth.
The ferry only stops for mere 5 minutes so activities at the Hon Son harbour are hustle generally, so remember to have ferryline staff and porters to collect all your luggage (in my case it is my bike).
There’s a refreshment stall at the back of the ferry by the door to the lounge. The price is fixed on the same kind: 20,000 vnd for beer, 15,000 vnd for soft drink, cup noodle for 12,000 vnd; other snacks for 5,000-6,000 vnd.
If you travel by cycle, the handling cost (getting the bike on and off the ferry) is 40,000 – 50,000 totally.
The Superdong ticket office on Hon Son island is located on the right at the first crossroad, opposite the park. It’s not big so you may take a little time to find out.
Beside the majestic natural landscape that could take your breath away, Ha Giang is also the home of various ethnic minorities with their indigenous tradition and culture that await to explore in a homestay experience like nights in this H’mong village in Meo Vac.
Mr Isaac (left) was working while Ms Trang Hinh was posing at the homestay veranda
Slow-travelling coupled with homestay experience is a fantastic idea: you wake up early in the morning and take a deep breath and stroll around to enjoy the spectacular surroundings, before sipping hot coffee to get ready for a new day coming.
Wake up early in the morning and take a stroll around
Working. Travelling. Reading new books at leisure. It depends on your plan for a few days there. You may even request a seat to join the local’s meal, everyday, along with informative conversations about the lifestyle, traditions as well as cultural aspects.
The entrance of the H’mong homestay village in Pa Vi, Meo Vac. Photographed by Trang Hinh
So when my travel buddy Isaac suggested a homestay village in Pa Vi, Meo Vac, I was really eager to explore.
In fact, homestays are usually scattered here and there, and every host has his/her own stories to entertain guests. So a WHOLE village doing homestay business really sparked me.
Which homestay is your choice?
I did homestay in Dong Van town, but not ever in Meo Vac. How did they do and whether it was “same same but different”, or there would be anything new revealed unexpectedly. Our plan was simple: overnight in a homestay and have dinner with the host.
The first call from Isaac to a homestay, which used to host him months ago, returned an unexpected response to our budget travel lifestyle: the price was far above the range we were willing to pay.
So I did a search on both map app and booking platforms, the results were better. So we called and confirmed the booking, but the host refused to cook dinner. So we came up with a fusion: stay here but order dinners somewhere else but in that village. It worked!
So we had a cozy night, full of indigenous food like local beef soup (Thắng Cố bò), dried pork (Thịt lợn gác bếp) and veggie stir-fried with onion (rau xào tỏi). The food got chilled quickly due to the low temperature at night so we rushed to finish a bit. But it was still yummy and got us full.
Homestays capture the characteristic architecture of the H’mong ethnic with a double-tiled roof, brick-and-mortar wall, wooden pillars and dry stack stone fence
We came on a weekday, so the atmosphere was kinda quiet and we enjoyed all the sense of solitude ourselves. Isaac told me that the village was wide awake on the weekends and holidays, as both tourists and locals gathered to celebrate, sing and dine in groups.
On some special occasions, the festivals would likely be held in the community cultural house with massive attendants. So it seems I should have another date with this village.
After a good sleep in thick blankets, we were welcomed by the comfortable chill in the air that morning and eager to have a cup of coffee for ourselves. Isaac was working while I did a stroll around the village to sightsee every corner.
Most of the homestays capture the characteristic architecture of the H’mong ethnic with a double-tiled roof, brick-and-mortar wall, wooden pillars and dry stack stone fence, while the others are upgraded to modern aesthetics with cement walls painted to look like natural wood and iron gates.
There is a huge parking lot at the main entrance to the village with a guard booth, but on weekdays, guests are allowed to ride into homestays (the internal streets are so narrow that they are almost suitable for walking and riding small two-wheeled vehicles.
This village is connected to the general electricity network, so the facility remains very stable and guests are hardly annoyed by the loud noise of the family-run generators in remote regions.
On some special occasions, the festivals would likely be held in the community cultural house
Besides, it is also designed with three separated areas named A,B and C, linked by paved internal streets, giving a sense of the urban planning development like metropolitan neighborhoods.
Some might argue that this modern structure would destroy the local culture. But from my point of view, during days riding around the mountainous provinces of the North, a well-planned infrastructure indeed improves the local living.
Many travelers, both Vietnamese and foreigners, praise the region for its beauty of the spectacular landscape and rich culture, but ignore the harsh weather and poor soil for cultivation – “the beauty of poverty”.
The improvement in facilities really offers us a comfortable experience, an add-on after rough rides with dense mist, low temperature and slippery roads by rain.
You can meet many H’mong people in this area and have a meal with them. Meo Vac Clayhouse seems like a dominant homestay as it occupies a cluster of buildings and offers all-in-one experience for guests with a wide array of services including accommodation, coffee, herbal baths and massages, cocktail bars and a souvenir store,… yet the price is premium.
There are mostly 20 homestays in total with various styles in this area, so take your time!
A cozy night in the H’mong homestay village Pa Vi during holidays (All below pictures was photographed by Isaac on January 2021).
Lan Ha bay cruise tour for one day is such a must-try experience in Cat Ba island. I did it, and these are some reasons why you should do the same.
I add some tips in case you give it a try.
1. Schedule
This is a full day trip. The tour starts from 8:00 and you disembark at 17:00 so, except for the sunrise at dawn, you will experience the bay in mostly every hours on day with so many colors and themes of landscape and sun.
Tips:There’re transit minivan coming to pick you up at the booking agent office. No hassle!
Bánh Đa Cua – local spectialty
There’s no breakfast included but usually free-breakfast of hostels served after 8:00, so if you feel hungry, it’d better getting around early and have some food before. For me, I have Xôi (sticky rice), Bánh dày (round sticky rice cake) or a bowl of local Bánh đa cua (local crab rice noodle), they were all awesome!
When the cruise turns back in the late afternoon, the transit will get you straight forward your hostel, so when you’re back on the minivan, make sure you can look out and mark your accomodation so that the driver drops you by
2. Price
Price depends on the agency you book the tour, ranges from 350,000 – 380,000 vnd/ pax.
The experience covers from cruising, kayaking, lunch, drop you by remote beaches and eventually take a walk around Monkey island.
I find it reasonable and worth a try. I know Cat Ba is a beautiful destination but without eyes to Lan Ha bay, you miss a lot of stunning experience.
3. Experience
I’ll tell you what surprises me most!
The landscape, well, Lan Ha bay (or former Ha Long bay complex) was such a beautiful touch to my every senses. Green, Rocks, Sky – exquisite harmony!
We saw a big fish, no, giant fish, and there’re only two in the bay.
We kayaked for over one hour. That was the first time I’ve been on a kayak, and got used to it quickly, then we moved around, through caves, find shades among rocks and greens, when the time stood still.
We settled down for a while and jump for joy, well, off the ship, for 1-2 second I didn’t remember and landing on the cool and clear water. We even saw jelly fish and make jokes when guiding people to circle around a imaginary jelly ones (because, you know, it’s said that jelly fish bite hurts you much).
Then we had lunch onboard surrounded by fantastic scenery, open talks about experience, many fellow travelers on the cruise, all around the world and stories keep flowing out of mouth like waterfall.
(Well, it’s a bit annoying when someones keep saying “you know, five years ago, it’s such a heaven on earth, I’ve been there at that time, now, I can’t recognize it anymore.)
After lunch, we took a lazy time resting then heading to a site where offers three tiny beaches (Ba Trái Đào isle). The cruise stopped in deep water and we swam ourselves toward those sands. It is very exciting and relaxing when you lie on the beach, among majestic rocks and an open sky, such a luxurious experience.
The final stop, Monkey island is also amazing when we caught a beautiful sunset, the sand was super fine and monkeys were very friendly (I shook hand with a guy) despite warning that you shouldn’t tease them much or you’ll take claws/ bites.
For hikers, there’s a challenging mountain not far from the house by the beach, you should be careful when climbing up, the rocks are quite sharp but the panoramic view on top is super worthy.
4. How to buy Lan Ha bay cruise tour (one-day)
This is one of the most popular tours in Cat Ba so you have no difficulty asking for it in any hostels, remember the price range as I mentioned above so that you won’t be rip-offed.
It’s better to take a sleeper bus, starting at 23:00 so that you would wake up in the next day at the harbour and take the earliest speed boat trip to the island.
I prefer Phuong Trang open bus due to the wide range of departure time and a flexible transit directly to the harbor. The cost is 150,000 vnd/ person.
There are two speed boat operators: Superdong and Ngoc Thanh. Superdong service: departs at 6:15 and it takes 2,5-3 hours to Nam Du with 210,000 vnd/ person (2018).
All bus and boat are required to book in advance and receive the ticket 30 minutes beforehand.
2. Get out
The last speed boats leave Nam Du at 15:15.
The last Phuong Trang bus to HCMc will leave at 23:00.
Bear in mind the schedule to plan your leaving.
Nam Du harbour from above
3. What to do in Nam Du
Cruise tour
You can book cruise tour at any hostel/ hotel receptionist, with two options: a full-day trip for 250,000 vnd/ person, departing at 8:00 AM and visiting 3 isles: Hon Dau, Hon Mau and snorkel site. A half-day trip will cover the two last, you will leave the island at 13:00, only 150,000 vnd.
Life vest is limited, especially in common daily tour because the cruise crew will try their best to get as many guests as possible, sometimes, outnumber the amount of life vests. Therefore, you may love to be first people onboard and get yours.
Private boat to island is also available, for 75-100 usd/ day. If you don’t have much time, or wanna some private moment, more flexible schedule, this option is for you. Contact through hostel, too, and tell them you’d prefer private tour.
Usually, the agency will offer 75 usd/ half day and 100 usd/ full day but you should bargain down to 50 usd for half day tour and 75 usd with a full day tour. It’d better be clear with agency about what isles you would visit and how long they would take you around. A full day should start at 8:00 and half day at 13:00, all ends at 17:00 as common tour.
Bear in mind that the tour may not be available if weather stays bad, so watch out weather forecast to plan the trip.
Cruise review
Hon Dau, Hon Mau are two popular destinations of daily tour. These are residential isles, beach is beautiful with nice, tiny and colorful rocks, water is super clear, and if you come there in sunny days, you would see how amazing they are.
The last stop is a snorkel site, but the coral reefs is not as beautiful as those of Phu Quoc isles, it’d better snorkeling under sun (at noon) because the sun light will lit up the surface underwater, making it more fantastic and the temperature would be comfortable than in the late afternoon.
4. Accomodation
There are many options: motels, homestay, dorms.
The only dorm cost minium 150,000 vnd/ person for a 8-bed room. A private room range from 150,000 vnd/ night with fan, and over 250,000 vnd/ night with room equipped air-conditioned.
My choice was Khang Vy, a motel locates at the intersection toward fishing village. The room is clean, and equipped air-con, for 250,000 vnd/ night.
There’re many touts asking whether you’ve booked a room and suggesting theirs. Most of first time visitors would choose to walk for a while (avoiding tour traps), but finally, when they’re fatigue, the decision is made for touts.
Tips: check the room, check the price but consider your experience, you may not be back in future so make your first impression good!
The seafood worth your tries due to the variety of creatures. I suggest you spend 50-100 usd to cover most of delicious food in the island. It’s worthy for your curiosity and exploration.
We try a specialty: “lẩu cá xương xanh” (green skeleton fish hotpot), only 150,000 vnd/ 2 people and it’s very delicious. You can buy other kind of seafood and have them well cooked right at the local food-stalls, with a beer and a view towards the sea, it is simply a amazing experience.
A bowl of “bún thịt” only costs 20,000 vnd/ pax, so much cheap. We also bought a tiger beer for 18,000 vnd – same as mainland.
One of special jam drink of the island is “đá me”. You will be attracted by vendors stirring a hot brown mixture.
If you travel deeply enough into fishing village as we did in Bai Ngu, then you will find out more local food with more reasonable price compared to those at the harbour.
The shore
6. Ride around
The cheapest bike rental fee is 150,000 vnd for 24 hour. You’d better ride around the small island without any refuel.
However, if you tend to check every corners then possibly you should buy more fuel from local grocery with 25,000 vnd/ litre
I spotted some bicycles for rent also, it’s also ideal to take cycling as the coastal road is relatively short (over 20 kilometers I guess). Keep in mind that there are slopes upwards and downwards.
Coastal road
Rent a bike and ride around the island is a must-try experience as the landscape is incredible. The cliffs, the shore with colorful rocks, lines of coconut, blue clear-as-crystal water with far far away fishing boats, evergreen forests. You will miss these ones if you don’t ride.
7. Photography spot
These amazing pictures above are shot at some spots:
– “the harbour”: on the way to lighthouse, there’s a site which you can photograph entire shore below. People call it “sky gate”.
– “Xich du”: at Hon Mau, follow the road to the end, there’s a local restaurant with beautiful props as in my photos.
– “the shore”: you can spot these shore after leaving Bai Men few miles towards Bai Ngu fishing village. Stick to the sea side and you’ll spot it.
8. Conclusion
The island is such a wonderful travel site: good food, beautiful scenery, small enough for short trip. The big disadvantage is it requires permit for foreigners, but if you can make it, then it’s completely worth your effort.
Just a stop enrouting to Dalat, Di Linh somehow, has its own identity of unique landscape and food.
Get in
The best relaxation way is to take an open bus of Phuong Trang or Thanh Buoi for around 200,000 dong.
Bike trip is good for adventure, the highway 20 condition is very good, flat and smooth, frequent bike service, so you have no trouble riding to Di Linh.
Best local food
I had a wonderful meal at a small food stall at 368 Hung Vuong. They cook very well, the dishes are cheap and tasty. I had yougurt with red artichoke flower, Xiu mai and chicken soup for only 32,000 dong in total.
There’s not popular specialty for Di Linh, and well-known restaurants in the town, also. The popular dish is Banh xeo, I saw a lot vendors offered it. Pho and Com (boiled rice) is quite cheap.
Attractions
Play as a quick stop to Dalat, Di Linh is not quite popular but still owns some attractions:
9km from downtown toward HCMc, by highway 20, the fall is abandoned now. At the time I visited, there were 2 little girls there, so I had them guard my bike and guide me to the fall, cost 20,000 dong for both. The fall was beautifully majestic and still very natural. I saw a lot of picnic leftover, so it’s possibly camping there. The fall flows fiercely in rain season so be careful when you travel that time.
Li Liang waterfall
Another waterfall, locating by highway 28, 13 kilometers away from Di Linh center. There’s not a high fall but rocks stacked not-quite-steeply, like a stream. Wild and pure, Li Liang waterfall is great for a stop and picnic, along with Bobla.
Kala
An artificial lake, 300 acre in square. It looks like a giant mirror reflecting the blue sky above, surrounded by shady pine forest. It’s quiet, poetry and fantastic. If you visit Li Liang, don’t miss Kala because they are very close to each other.
Ta Dung lake
Ta Dung lake
A huge lake just 30 minute riding from downtown. There’s nothing to do but take a tour follow highway and observe the majesty of nature from above: a combination of water, mountains and sky, like a breath-taking painting. A bike trip takes 3-4 hours.
You can follow a small road downward then rent a boat for fishing days. Price is negotiable.
Tea plantations
As many towns in highland, Di Linh offer an evergreen lines of tea on hills. You can park your bike and have stunning photography in sunny days, there’s almost no shades so it’d better pack along hats or umbrella for heat protection. You should spend 1-2 hours.
Suggested itinerary
Day #1: Tea/ cafe plantation in early morning, have breakfast in town, then heading toward Li Liang waterfall and have lunch, when it’s 3-4 PM, take a visit to Kala to shoot for the sunset. You should spend your evening eat local food.
Day #2: a bike trip exploring Ta Dung lake, you can rent a boat surfing around for whole morning. I think setting up a picnic or camp right inside the lake is a good idea for adventure. The late afternoon should you spend on Bobla waterfall.
Estimated budget for 2-day trip for couples
Because there’s no dorm/ homestay for solo traveller, so it’d better travel in group to share cost. I list the cost for two people, a motorbike, staying a room for 2 days in Di Linh. There are a few option for food.
