Thinh Pham

Tag: Vietnam

  • A Guide to Trek Chua Chan Mountain

    A Guide to Trek Chua Chan Mountain

    Chua Chan mountain, the second highest mountain in southern Vietnam, is your perfect choice to hike. Here we go!

    Introduction

    So where is Chua Chan mountain, and why it is so special that become one of HCMC citizen’s most favorite mountain hiking spots?

    Located in Dong Nai, Chua Chan mountain (aka núi Gia Lào) is about 100 km away from Saigon. As 837 m high, it is also the second-highest peak in the southeastern region of Vietnam, just after Black Virgin Mountain (núi Bà Đen) in Tay Ninh, whose height is 996 m. It was recognized as a national heritage site in 2012.

    Read More: Black Virgin mountain trekking tips

    It is interesting that Chua Chan used to be a volcano (so typical is the conical shape), and you may see it when taking a bus from Saigon to Phan Thiet as it is located close to the mainway.

    In Vietnam, wherever there’s a mountain, there are temples or pagodas. Sharing the same fact, Chua Chan is home to three main pagodas: Buu Quang, Linh Son, Lam Son.

    Pagodas at Chua Chan mountain

    Linh Son pagoda (aka chùa Ông Ngộ) was initially a small altar in a stone cave back in 1952. More than a decade later, the official pagoda worshipping Buddha was constructed in 1965, just 150 m away from this spiritual site. The story around this stone cave is quite interesting but warning for dare hikers: it was actually connected to a larger cavern, which is housed to a multitude of little streams running toward a small pond. From this pond, a person could hike downward within 3 hours to the foot of the mountain at Ong Don (Ông Đồn). In the 2000s, there was an enthusiastic hiker traveling through the cave, unfortunately killed by rock falls. Since then, the cave mouth was closed to prevent any similar accidents. The facility of the pagoda is well comfortable for visitors sheltering overnight.

    Sharing the same history as the aforementioned Linh Son, Lam Son pagoda (aka chùa Cô Ba) was built in 1955 as an altar in the case then developing into a full spiritual structure later. The interesting fact of this pagoda is that buddhist nuns have been at the helm of this temple since 1970. At the height of 250m altitude, Lam Son is also housed to various remarkable religious statues and a spectacular vista toward Gia Ray town far far away.

    Located at the height of 600m altitude, Buu Quang (aka chùa Gia Lào) is the highest among the three pagoda at Chua Chan mountain. The history of this temple dates back to the early 18th century, when a zen master named Ngo Chan traveled to this mountain and set up a pagoda in a cave called “dragon cavern” (Long Cốc). Later, he moved to Dinh mountain, but the indigenous people thought he reached the peak of the way, so they closed the cave mouth. In 1845, a monk named Buu Chon came and opened the cave to lead a religious life in seclusion. Nearly a century later, two geologists Van Ngo and Sau Cao discovered the site, and have a monk at the helm of the pagoda, which has been succeeded by generations of monks up to now. The pagoda is conveniently approached, as located close to the cable car station.

    Drive or Ride to Chua Chan mountain

    There are 2 main routes, depending on your transportation: the fastest way is to ride a car/ bus following the expressway, while travelling by motorcycle to enjoy a ride of freedom on 1A highway is not a bad option. Compared to the Ba Den mountain motorbike route, the distance between HCMC and Chua Chan Mountain is shorter, saving more time when your ass is tortured on the motorbike.

    Read more: The Pre-Ride Motobike Inspection For Your Safety 

    By the way, both hiking routes to the summit (tick off Saigon – Chua Chan transportation route to better navigate the Chua Chan hiking map integrated above) are also less heavy breathing than the famous summit of Tay Ninh province. So Chua Chan summit has recently been one of my favorite camping sites in the South.

    Hiking route A: Starting from the cable car station – Pagoda complex

    This route offers quite a comfortable experience, but less natural vibe. Moreover, you will have to pay an entrance fee of 15,000 VND when following this route (Fortunately, the other route B is a local trail and free of charge as no one owns the gate 😀 )

    Trails from cable car station to the summit (2018)

    Instead of hiking, you can buy a ticket to go up by cable car! With 1 km in length, the cable car system hosts 72 cabins (8 pax /cabin), constructed by an Australian company. The surrounding is so colorful with flowers and plants neatly grown and well maintained on a daily basis. A return ticket costs 160,000 VND/ adult and 90,000 VND/ child (0.9m-1.2m) and free for under 0.9m but charged as an adult if s/he is taller than 1.2m.

    The beauty of nature on Chua Chan mountan (2018)

    Still decide to hike? You will travel through various pagodas, some of which are mentioned above. The rest stops are located from time to time to serve a multitude of pilgrims and visitors climbing uphill and down hundreds of stairs. As long as you have money, every comfort can be bought from the side vendors.

    Vendors by the staircase

    The stone staircase upward the pagoda is steep and fully occupied with stores and food stalls. Some vendors might ask you to buy some goods, especially incense and candles if you are Vietnamese or Asian as they think you come to pray.

    2018

    Despite the fact that stores ruin the sacred atmosphere of a pilgrimage, they are beneficial somehow that provide travelling people with delicious food and cool drinks, along with clothes, shoes, souvenirs. Someone says it also hosts so-called “spiritual services” including palmistry and fortune telling cards. Entertaining in karaoke rooms and resting overnight in hostels are also available.

    Yeah, I think the “very special village” plays very well a role of the dedicated food street in a manner of “staircase to heaven”

    Hiking from the upper cable car station (2018)

    The trail

    After leaving the cable car station behind, you start following a paved trail, which is lined with cajus and other lush trees. Be noticed that sometimes forks show no direction signs, and the general advice is to opt to the wider routes as they are likely towards the peak. If you go the wrong way then it is also a very short time to realize that situation and come back, which means, you may get lost, for a while, so no worry.

    Upper cable car station

    This station is very close to two points of interest: Buu Quang pagoda (I thought this transportation was built mainly to serve the pilgrims) and paragliding cloud base (I took off several times there, a very challenging spot for any rookie pilots for sure). You can buy bottled drinks and ice-cream by a vendor inside the station during the daytime for at least 15,000 VND for a 500ml bottle of coke. But for the first time hiking, my friends and I experienced pretty bad weather and finally decided to pitch tents here. How remarkable it was there!

    Indeed, the station is hardly occupied by campers but we did it and enjoyed a wonderful night. The next morning, someone told us that the night watcher thought it was the devil as he heard our laughs but failed to see us. LoL! I will tell you the detailed story in the “night trekkers” part below.

    For night trekkers

    As we planned to camp at night, the experience was totally different from day hiking.

    It was a little bit weird.

    Starting at 10 PM at the foot of the mountain (10,000 parking fee/ night at a nearby house), we saw no one while taking step-by-step to the peak, but some prayers when we were close to the pagodas. Dogs were everywhere and they were barking fiercely but nicely without any bites.

    The vendors were just resting on beds or hammocks but you hardly see them, little altar along with the smell of incense. After the pagoda, we experienced a complete darkness of the trail. It should have been one or two hours to hike uphill to the summit, while the weather turned worse and worse. That’s why we half-heartedly pitched camps in the upper cable car station.

    If you don’t want to take risks (due to weather or so) then camping in the cable car station at night is pretty ideal but you may need a permit.

    Taking off from Paragliding Cloud Base (2020)

    Chua Chan Paragliding Cloud Base

    Flying games has so far become one of the most sought-after adrenaline activities for thrill seekers around the world. They don’t come at cheap price, but are frequently mentioned in the bucket list of most world travelers, say skydiving in Fiji, ballooning in Turkey, Laos, or bungee jumping in Macau, New Zealand. People are often willing to pay a fortune, even when they travel on a budget, for their once-in-a-lifetime experience: flying.

    If you have ever wished to fly in Vietnam (of course, not by domestic airline), we have both good and bad news. The good news: there are paragliding services in which you will be a passenger, flying together with the experienced pilots. The bad news: There are very few “airfields” to take off in the S-shaped country.

    Though the mountainous terrain of the North seems to offer more opportunities to paraglide, the situation in the South contrasts, due to the popular terrain is a vast delta dotted by several mountains once being volcanoes, one of which is Chua Chan. By the slope of this mountain, a small cloudbase airfield was established for the local paragliding community as well as curious visitors who would love a romantic flight accompanied by high-trained pilots.

    As a rookie pilot years ago, I myself took off here for the first time and admired the majestic view from above. Trekking would not give you that experience. It is completely different. It’s high, fantastic, yet a bit scary when your feet are entirely up in the air, not heavily stuffy like in a closed cabin of a commercial plane with limited window-sided seats. Paragliding offers passengers a remarkable panoramic experience, no limited sight. Turn your head and you can freely admire the whole stunning landscape with the bird-view toward the surrounding regions, a train rolling far away, a green forest of cashew trees at the foot of the Chua Chan mountain. It is definitely a must for dare travelers who seek a high dose of adrenaline in extreme sports in Vietnam.

    To book a seat on paragliding wings, you can contact via the fanpage of Chua Chan Paragliding.

    Wooden house by the spectacular view

    En route to the peak, you probably stop by a cottage hosting many hammocks for beautiful resting. Actually, when we came here in 2018, we saw a little garden full of baby pine so it is hopefully expected to be very green the following year. (I didn’t follow this route in my 2021 trip, so I have no idea how it has progressed so far).

    You could set up camp and cook there, a lot of campfire traces on the ground and you can collect big stones nearby for a temporary campfire. From this cottage, it may take you one more hour (or less, depending on your stamina) to reach the summit, completing the hiking route A. Congratulations!

    ‘Electricity Pole’ Hiking Route B: Easy game, less vendors, more nature

    This route takes about 2-3 hours trekking with a lot of short breaks to refresh on big stones, under green canopy with great views towards a small lake far far away. Less stamina required (and more time to rentertain at the summit).

    There has been no commercial complex yet here (Ba Den summit now is occupied by the recreational park of Sun World – a significant property of Sun Group, the brand behind Fansipan Legend in Sapa, Lao Cai and Ba Na Hills in Da Nang). Last but not least, the service for camping in Chua Chan is excellent.

    Like Ba Den, at the foot of the mountain, there are a couple of locals who provide rental service and rest stop, parking lots. You can simply bring along a load of money and rent everything, from tents (diverse sizes), mattress, sleeping bag, flashlight, campfire kits, and other popular outdoor gear. Travelers resting on hammocks here, chilled drinks in hand, chit-chatting with companions before/after a hike are frequent on the weekends and holidays here. You can even get showered with a little additional fee.

    Often called “electricity pole route” of Chua Chan, the hike here bears a resemblance to that of Ba Den mountain, with a rock-stacked trail following the utility poles to the summit. The path is clear, lowering the risk of getting lost, while sometimes surrounded by a dense canopy of local trees, some of which are banana, cashew and bamboo.

    A wide array of signs to raise the community’s awareness of environment protection are also erected or hung on trees and poles along the route, like the trekking in Ma Thien Lanh and Ong Rong of Hon Son Island, Kien Giang. So the path is kinda clear to navigate in the daytime, but the possibility of getting lost at night should be highly considered. I would recommend hikers to start climbing from around 4PM, as the sunset is great while you are on the slope, navigating everything easily.

    You would also pass a water reservoir near the top. This essential supply is usually used by frequent hikers to refill water, which is absolutely a big plus compared to Ba Den mountain. Boiling this water with a camp kettle and you are no longer worried about dehydration in case the carried water is low.

    Campsite at the summit of Chua Chan mountain

    Depending on the season, the land is colored by green or yellowish brown look-like burnt grasses or lush plants. The breezes lure you into a calm nap with floating clouds rolling by near and far.

    It also provides a spectacularly panoramic view downward the neighborhoods below. (This is absolutely different from camping by the beach, like the campsite in Ho Coc, Ba Ria-VungTau).

    The campsite is pretty large, possibly hosting up to more than a hundred hikers without problem. The strong wind is definitely a great factor to consider where to pitch camps.

    So if you travel in groups or family camping with more than three tents, erecting in the open is ideal, as the tents cover themself against the wind.

    Only one to two canopies? Let’s set up among big rocks or behind a line of trees to protect your campfire better.

    The fuel is often available, but requires some effort to seek after all. Wandering around and you may come across a few dry logs scattering here and there over the summit.

    Note: The dry elephant grass is a super flammable material and should be used carefully, especially when your site is surrounded by the high density of grass. Any carelessness could set the accidental fire and the spread is rarely well controlled then, as the grass is FLAMMABLE!

    At the highest rock there is a pyramid etched with the mountain name and altitude “Chứa Chan 837m“, attracting a multitude of hikers to check-in at dawn (and sunset).

    Sunrise ….
    …Sunset

    Jump on this to pose and the panorama is such a well-deserved reward for the whole tiring trip uphill before.

    Bringing home some souvenirs, why not!

    If you go downhill on route A, some souvenirs for family at home (and colleagues in the office) would be great to celebrate after the trip. It’s definitely crunchy banana chips with ginger that is a specialty as you see many many of them on the way back and local vendors.

    “What’s your plan”

    A typical itinerary and time schedule for a day trekking should be like below:

    5:00: Departing from Ho Chi Minh City

    6:00: Have a breakfast (in Bien Hoa city)

    9:00: Reach foot of the mountain, park your motorcycles (if any), prepare your backpacks and get ready to start the staircase journey.

    9:30: Starting the hike, head to the pagodas

    10:30: End of the staircases, reach the pagoda, take rest then start the mountain trekking

    12:00: At the summit, have lunch, take nap

    14:00: Start descending

    15:30: At the foot of the mountain, have drink and relax

    16:00: Ride back

    17:00: Have dinner in Bien Hoa city

    17:30: Continue riding back to HCMc

    19:00: In HCMC

    For the night hiking, generally share the time schedule, if you departs from HCMc at 16:00 then you’re likely to reach the peak at midnight and welcome the sunrise at dawn on the next day (luckily you see a stunning sea of cloud) and get back at 8:00 then arrive in HCMC at 14:00 same day.

    What kind of outfit should be good for the hike?

    Pants and long sleeves are better as the trail has a lot of tall grasses that makes you irritated, along with mosquitoes.

    Weather does matter. We had a very bad rainy night and couldn’t make it to the summit, so, you’d better watch out for the weather forecast before departure. The dry season starts from December to April, and rainy season is between May and November. It’s safe to trek in the dry season but packing along a raincoat is usually a good idea.

    The path is easy to go, and it may have a little muddy terrain in the rainy season that probably makes you fall.

    It is extremely comfortable to wear sandals in the rainy season. Normally, trekking shoes play pretty well, too.

    Wanna protect your skin? A sun cream is perfect, though mostly you are covered by the shade

    If you plan to camp overnight then an extra clothes to change is advised as it keeps you dry while the cold and fog at night may make you get sick.

    Hiking Chua Chan Mountain on a budget

    100,000 VND Gasoline

    35,000 VND/ a bow of Pho (good option)

    10,000 VND/day parking fee (per motorcycle)

    200,000 – 300,000 VND self-prepared meal for one person at peak/ camping

    30,000 VND water (3.0L)

    10,000 VND raincoat

    320,000 VND in Total ($15)

    Chua Chan mountain photos

    2018

    Chua Chan ZaiTri
    The Upper Cable Car Station
    A flower pot by the upper cable car station

    2021

    Further Reading On Trekking & Camping

    Stunning views, cozy campfire, friendly talks, we all love trekking and camping experience. I also list some selective stories and tips below for your further reading.

  • Everythings about Fansipan – Vietnam’s Highest Peak

    Everythings about Fansipan – Vietnam’s Highest Peak

    For a long time, the extraordinary summit – Fansipan mountain has drawn a huge attention of massive travelers, both Vietnamese and foreigners, who would love to make arduous treks or simply take cable cars to the peak station to admire the beauty of breath-taking scenery above the cloud.

    Introduction about Fansipan Mountain

    In short, Mt Fansipan (Phan Xi Păng in Vietnamese) is the highest peak of Vietnam and The roof of Indochina. However, the height of the mountain has slightly changed: It was 3,143 metres (10,312 ft) in 1909, but is 3,147.3 metres up to now.

    Why Fansipan called … “Fansipan”?

    Fansipan meaning is one of the best-kept secrets in Vietnam. Actually, when you ask some Vietnamese, they mostly know it is the highest peak but the meaning behind the name is another story.

    Most articles on the internet suggested it should be translated in the local minority language as “Hủa Xi Pan”, which means “giant unstable rock”, based on its typical shape.

    But it doesn’t end at that point. Another theory suggested that its given name means “Azalea Mountain” in Hmong language. It pretty makes sense as the mountain is well-known for the prevalence of azalea – beautiful flowers that you may run into in your trek to the summit.

    The last theory of the origin of the name Fansipan proposed that the name could have been an inaccurate version of pronunciation of Phan Văn Sơn, a geography official in the Nguyễn dynasty. He helped the French colonials to map the area and set the border with China in 1905.

    Fansipan weather & climate

    Fansipan temperature is an interesting matter. It changes frequently and quickly, season by season, month by month, day by day, or even, within a day. So you may experience 4 different seasons in Fansipan in one day, if you are lucky enough.

    Fansipan snow may be caught between November and February as this is the coolest time in Sapa and the temperature can drop to below 0°C – It is definitely safe and comfortable to take a cable car to visit Fansipan during this time.

    Fansipan hiking seasons are Spring (March – April) and Autumn (September – October), when you will be able to take the best photography of the landscape along the trails, from the golden rice terraces to the evergreen shrub with brilliantly fiery blossoms of azalea. Therefore, the best time to climb Fansipan is either Spring or Autumn for aforementioned reasons.

    Fansipan mountain location

    As an essential part of the Hoang Lien Son mountain range, Fansipan is located about 9km southwest of Sapa town in Lao Cai province.

    Travel to Fansipan: express bus, train or cable car?

    Fansipan Express Bus may confuse you but it is actually a popular bus line offering daily drives (5.5 hour long) from Hanoi to Sapa and vice versa (there is no direct bus to the summit). For sleeping beds, there are 2 options: 20 private VIP cabins (1.8m x 0.9m) and 34 soft seats (beds). Hanoi-Sapa bus departs from 7AM, 2PM, 10PM at 01 Cho Gao street, Hanoi while Sapa-Hanoi starts from 7:30AM, 1:20PM, 4PM, 10PM at 588 Dien Bien Phu street, Sapa. Price 20$ for one way. The on-bus amenity includes wifi, HD content, headphone, charging port, reading lamp, air-con, English guide, blanket & pillow, and drinking water. Free picking up from your hotel in the Old Quarter and free shower and room for your luggage at their office.

    Beside the sleeper buses, traveling to Sapa by premium Fansipan Express Train is also a good option. Soft Berth (4 beds in cabin) at $34 and VIP Berth (2 beds in cabin) at $73 for one-way ticket (Note: One way ticket is available except high season). Departure from Hanoi at 21:35 and arrival in Sapa at 05:30. Starting from Sapa at 20:55 to Hanoi at 04:32. Free of charge for children under 5 year old who share parent‘s existing berths. The amenity in each Fansipan Express Train cabin includes reading lights, baggage storage, mineral water, snacks and napkins for free. On each carriage is located a minibar with snacks and drinks. It serves breakfast with cake, cafe and tea for free before leaving Lao Cai station only. More info here.

    So in Sapa, you then have to take a taxi ($5 ride) to Fansipan Legend station for a cable car ride to the peak or start a trek experience at Tram Ton Pass.

    Unless taxi is your choice, Muong Hoa Mountain Train, which was established in 2018, departs from the station in Sapa town and after a 5-minute ride over the valley, crossing 2 tunnels and 4 viaducts with spectacular vistas of farms and hamlets below, you will be greeted by a stunning sunflowers at the Fansipan Legend station too.

    Some of us might not know that Fansipan cable cars hold 2 Guinness World Records (world’s longest & the biggest ascent by a cable car). The service runs from 7:30am to 5:30pm every day, and each cable car carries up to 35 passengers. The fantastic ride offers travelers a remarkable view high above the rice terraces and rocky cliffs via huge windows, until the towering tip above the clouds appears gradually to welcome.

    Mt Fansipan Hike

    Successfully climbing to the Fansipan summit is definitely a one-of-a-lifetime for intrepid travelers. Yup, Fansipan trekking experience is not for everyone. Health issues should be concerned before any decision to take part in this activity of the extreme sport. If you are not confident about your body, consider taking the cable car for your sake.

    Fansipan hike tours are popular in town. Prices may vary from the tour operators (budget or premium options) and the duration of journeys (up to 4 days for the most challenging hike routes).

    Fansipan 1 day trek is usually the most budget-friendly option to go for. It starts from Tram Ton Pass station at the altitude of 1900m, to the first base camp at 2,200m then continually to the second camp at 2,800 m before reaching the summit at a very hectic pace. To enjoy a more relaxing experience, go for a 2-day trek.

    In 2017, I made a Fansipan 2 day trek offered by a local operator. They provided pretty good service with a couple of the experienced Fansipan guide and porter (they seem both local). We had lunch at the first base camp (2,200m high) and dinner at the 2,800m camp, took a short sleep in a shack before the early departure to admire the dawn at the summit. It’s stunning!

    Beside Fansipan hike tours, you can make Fansipan hiking by yourself. Be aware to spend some pennies on these expenses – a combo of fees for trek permit on Hoang Lien mountain (prices vary so this information is for reference only) before the first steps:

    • Sanitation fee: 5.000 VND
    • Forest service fee: 150.000 VND
    • Entrance ticket price: 30.000 VND
    • Insurance fees: 5.000 VND
    • Porter hiring fee for guiding and loading luggage (optional): 200.000 VND
    • Sleeping bag, trekking essentials, and tents rental fee(optional): 70.000 VND

    Final thought about Mt.Fansipan

    There is no doubt that a journey to the Fansipan mountain is a must-do during your trip to Sapa town. It’s spectacular, full of amazing experience and so conveniently accessible for both leisure tourists as well as adventurous travelers.

    Quick facts

    1. Fansipan terrace cafe and homestay is a tranquil homestay with fantastic views overlooking valleys and Fansipan mountain. It is located on Fansipan Street, in Sapa town. A good place to relax and enjoy the beautiful mountainous landscape.

    2. Fansipan Buddha statue (Great Amitabha Buddha) located at a pagoda complex on Mount Fansipan was recognized as the copper statue located at the highest altitude in Asia by Guinness World Records. Built in 2015, the 21.5-meter-tall figure is made from thousands of bronze pieces 5mm thick.

    3. There is a little Asian restaurant in Berlin Zehlendorf named Fansipan Restaurant, which offers diners unique sushi creations along with delicious food & drinks from Vietnam, Thailand and Asia.

    4. Fansipan outdoors is a boutique gear brand founded by Blair Kemp and runs entirely out of the founder’s Brooklyn apartment. The brand name is inspired by Kemp’s travels to the iconic Fansipan – Vietnam’s highest peak.

    5. Klook sells Fansipan Legend admission tickets at 715,000 VND, which is 35,000 VND cheaper than at the ticket booth.

    6. hikingvietnam.com shows a series of detailed Fansipan maps for enthusiastic hikers. Take a look!

  • Review Homestay Cao Bang: Lan’s homestay Ban Gioc

    Review Homestay Cao Bang: Lan’s homestay Ban Gioc

    An amazing place to stay in Cao Bang with a super cool host that definitely surprises you

    “Lan’s homestay is such an ideal place for ‘workation‘ during covid quarantine”, commented my travel buddy Isaac while we were all temporarily locked down in the city due to the covid pandemic spread. And I totally agreed with him.

    Surrounded by picturesque landscape with an emerald river at the front and backed by majestic mountains, Lan’s Homestay offers guests a comfortable living with well-cooked local food, clean rooms on a stilt house bearing traditionally cultural architecture, perfect internet coverage – all at a very reasonable expense that guests can hardly complain.

    Truth be told. We had never expected any decent accommodation like that until every touchpoint during our stay left me with enormous surprise. I love the homestay in general, and here are reasons why this place should be in your wishlist too when travelling to world-famous Ban Gioc waterfall in Cao Bang.

     A pretty couple of puppies at the homestay

    Stay comfortably and culturally

    Like most traditional houses in the regions, the mansion bears an indigenous architecture: the house raised on stilts over the surface of the ground. This traditional construction is developed primarily as a protection against flooding, as well as keeping out unexpected vermin. The shady space under the house can be used for work, storage or even cattle housing.

     The shared space dorm room and private room at the back

    Based on the fundamental structure, Lan’s Homestay was built with comfort-oriented purpose, so it would be unlike the traditional houses above in terms of tourism standard. The upper floor provides accommodation to guests with both options: a line of rooms for private experience with windows open towards the garden at the back, and a shared-space ‘dorm room’ which is readily separated by curtains into individual blocks with so-so privacy when in need. The pros are the airy atmosphere but the privacy is definitely the cons, especially when you have small but valuable assets, and you wish to leave them at home to sightsee around at ease.

     The wooden staircase towards the upper floor

    One more thing to be concerned about is when staying on a stilt house whose floor is wooden, every move you accidentally make on it will sound below (privacy alert again, especially for intimate couples). In case all you need is just a brick-and-mortar room like hotels, Lan’s Homestay also provides that kind of room. Comfort without compromise!

     The lounge and dining room on the ground floor

    Beside the upper floor (with the poetic balcony river view at the front), the ground floor is another interesting place, playing as an in-house dining room along with a pleasant lounge. The ‘room’ is decorated with vertical hammocks and, interestingly, the indigenous three-stringed instruments (Đàn tính) which I tried to play and it was astonishingly similar to guitar. If you don’t bring along some books, don’t worry as you may find several popular titles in the bookshelf.

     I and Isaac were looking up a good titles in the bookshelf. Courtesy of Trang Hinh

    A cup of tea (or coffee, or chocolate flavoured malted powder ‘milo’) prepared from the catering rack by the counter would definitely be a good companion. The host told us that the filtered water here was actually sourced from the nearby streams, with a distinctive natural taste that you would rarely find in the city.

     The garden by the stilt house

    By the stilt house is a green garden housing various kinds of flora, including the popular buckwheat (tam giác mạch) of the mountainous provinces in Northern Vietnam, particularly Ha Giang. Its fascinating pinky flowers provide a spectacular background to immerse yourself into and selfie at will. Buckwheat flowers are famously enduring, cold and drought tolerant, easily grown in the cool neighborhood. The most beautiful period of the flowers is when they are about to wilt, transforming from the white color to the light pink and then dark red in several weeks totally. I just met them at the most beautiful week by chance. Such a good luck!

     An epitome of the local cuisine: locally-grown fresh vegetable, river fish, roots, sausage (plus spring rolls for some occasions) and rice.

    Indigenous food taste

    For me, one of the quickest ways to explore a culture is through foooood! So after arriving at the homestay in the late afternoon, we booked a dinner full of indigenous dishes for 100,000 vnd/ pax, plus chilled beers to celebrate a day riding through the majestic landscape of Cao Bang.

    There’s no fixed menu. Actually, it’s seasonal. So we had boiled cabbage, deep-fried river fish, a hot soup of carrot & potato, fried spring rolls and sausages. While the vegetables were super fresh and provided a special “umami” taste, the fish was deliciously crispy, but on top of that, the sausages delivered such a remarkable experience I guessed this indigenous taste ‘ignited’ from the seasoning ingredients popularly found in the remote mountainous regions in the North. There were up to three kinds of dipping sauce, made of onion, garlic and chili pepper sliced into fish sauce, soy sauce and salt.

    No fast food here also, to be noticed. Most of the food is seasonal and requires booking in advance, so you’d better call the host to get informed about available dishes to arrange a ready meal by the time you arrive. Like other regions in the North, the diversity of food is not expected, instead the freshness of that.

    Generally like other Northern provinces, the cuisine experience for a solo traveler here may cost a fortune to taste various dishes because there’s merely a few options for individuals but a group (in contrast to the scene in the South: most restaurants or food stalls serve diverse food for individuals). To conclude, travelling in the North in a group is better due to cost saving and opportunity to try more food.

    Remarkable landscape and local living

    Days in Lan’s homestay, time is like frozen and guests have a wide array of exciting activities to take part in.

    In front of the homestay flows Quay Son (sông Quây Sơn), an “emerald” river where you will possibly find a shallow slope by the low-water bridge to do swimming as the local children frequently enjoy. The depth of the river is considerable and the water is cold, so you’d better work out a bit to warm up, as well as use some empty bottles to make a float aid that makes swimming safer and more comfortable (just like the kids here do). I went swimming in the late afternoon and the water was turning so cold that it even blurred my swimming goggles, so it seemed better to swim before sunset.

    On sunny days, finding an open space to sunbathe and take a nap is ideal due to the poetic landscape and chill breezes. Fishing is also not a bad idea. The picture of an old man fishing on a bamboo boat is one of my favorites. Indeed, this boat, with a couple lines of seat and thatched roof, is used to cruise tourists across the picturesque river.

    As the host revealed through her stories, the mountains behind the homestay were also available for trekking. But if forest trails are not to your taste, a leisurely hike around the village and fields is also note-worthy, as you are probably stopped by some corn field where goats and horses are grazing grass at their own pace (quite slow indeed). It is so peaceful and seductive to urbanists who are usually bombarded by annoying noises while lost among the forest of skyscrapers in the metropolises.

     Ms Lan’s photographs taken during her trekking journey in Everest basecamp, Nepal

    A super cool host

    When we finally arrived at the homestay and were parking our motorbike in the front yard, Ms Lan, the beautiful owner of the homestay, welcomed us with a hospitable manner while she was watering the garden leisurely. That was my very first impression. The second is her ability to keep her mansion neat and clean, which contributed greatly to our experience during the stay.

    The shared bathroom smelt good and clean, which was unexpectedly found in the mountainous neighborhood. She managed the service team so well that the food was served in time, and the table was cleaned up quickly after we finished and stood up. The rooms were also comfortable. Indeed, we had a problem with the lock of the first private room, and she kindly suggested we move to another better room. In her leisure time at the lounge, she also entertained us with her own interesting stories, which surprisingly revealed her adventurous past.

    Having finished studying abroad in China before, Ms Lan was once an experienced interpreter working throughout the border belt of Vietnam – China, so she worked with all kinds of people, from businessman to government team, and accumulated a diverse array of experience. Drink and smoke was no problem to the lady, and her adventure stories when she accompanied clients on the journey travelling back and forth the border areas might make young backpackers jealous.

    On top of that, she was a (maybe the only) person having ever completed an Everest base camp journey in the neighborhood. Her heart was weak, but her will was strong. Before the departure for the trip of her lifetime, she practiced trekking on the mountains behind her homestay now on a daily basis (the terrain looks similar to that surrounding the H’mong homestay village that I visited in Meo Vac, Ha Giang). It was tough but her stamina was improved well enough to meet the Everest trekking requirement. But the real experience at one of the highest areas on Earth still stunned her dramatically, and left her meaningful memories, which now are reminded through photographs proudly hung on the wall inside the homestay.

    She has such a brave heart! You can drop by the Lan’s homestay fanpage and say “Hi” now!

    (The open image: courtesy of Isaac)

  • A Guide to Bui Vien Street, Vietnam

    A Guide to Bui Vien Street, Vietnam

    Bui Vien street, where there are restaurants, massage parlors, boutique hotels, cheap hostels, vibrant pubs, unique souvenir shops, go-go bars and the best travel agencies, is such a not-to-be-missed destination in the neighborhood. Let’s explore now!

    Where is Bui Vien street?

    Just less than 10-minute walking from the city center and you find the most famous backpacker’s street of Ho Chi Minh City. Love Bangkok’s Khao San Road? I bet you will find yourself falling in love with Bui Vien street location (here). 

    “Where is Bui Vien street” is among the most common questions from first-time travelers to Ho Chi Minh city. Indeed, the trio of Bui Vien, De Tham, and Pham Ngu Lao street as the famous “Backpacker District”. Don’t miss that!

    In district 1, Bui Vien street is accessible by taxi or bus. From Bui Vien to Tan Son Nhat airport, you can book a drive from Grab/Be apps for no rip-off issues or take a taxi for 150,000 VNĐ (prices in 2022). 

    For the cheapest option, let’s take the Bus 152 at Tran Hung Dao street (pick up here). The trip should be around 35-45 minutes depending on the traffic.

    Tips to know:

    • On weekends, You cannot go into the walking street after 9 PM with a vehicle. Sorry!
    • The street is always crowded at night. Get ready for a massive influx of tourists.
    • Dare to join the locals & make friends! Fun triples

    Check Bui Vien street google map here!

    Nightlife activities to explore

    I super recommend you to walk and immerse yourself in the vibrant Bui Vien nightlife. Yup! Take it slow and explore the vibrant road. Let the colorful billboards and panels mesmerize your eyes. 

    You may run into young children performing street art like fire breathing. The loud music and hot girl dancing with poles, while the “security” men inviting you to have a seat and chill. A very bustling vibe, like Khao San Road. when the residents celebrate halloween in Bui Vien,The fun grows more and more 

    Most of Bui Vien street review recommend travelers to join the crowds sitting on tiny plastic chairs on the sidewalks, and immerse in the loud music with overlapping beats from a range of pubs, bars and clubs lining the street

    Culinary experience

    It’s such a radical challenge to pick what is the best restaurant in Bui Vien’s best food landscape. 

    Truth be told. Bui Vien food is various and delicious. The best of both worlds.

    For Vietnamese cuisine in Bui Vien, you can try Nông Thôn Đại Việt – The Rice Restaurant (here) for tasty fresh seafood and chef’s performance in an open kitchen for amazingly instagrammable photography. 

    I even freely touched those living creatures before deciding which ones were the best for dining. The sauce is good, tasty and elevates the dishes. 

    Other Bui Vien street restaurants serves various intercontinental delicacies: curated Japanese culinary experience in Jo Sushi Bar, little bites of Greek food at Greek Souvlavki (here).

    You may run into other 3-4 Indian restaurants in the area with top tastes like Chandni Chowk (here) or Namaste (here). Curry lover? Check-in Halen Indian’s curry (location here).

    A mood for craft beers? I drank Rooster Beer (here). You may be attracted by the store’s red-yellow theme. The space is often crowded and quickly occupied so you may find a little rush in finishing your glasses! Take your time, as the menu lists so many choices to explore. Remember, Bui Vien beer street lovers are always welcomed here.

    Cheap beers & cocktails with amazing views from the above? Check-in Le’Fê Rooftop Bar (here). Friendly staff, cool arcade games and trendy music selection awaits!

    How delicious street food is will drive you mad. Let’s go with plates of snails and other seafood in food stalls sided on the pavement. And don’t be afraid to try various style of cooking: steamed, sautéed, coated in chili and salt, or grilled. You name it! 

    For sweet tooth, let’s pass by a street vendor and opt for a small bowl of tofu. Fill your stomach with good food now! Bui Vien night market is worth a try even once.

    Tips to know: Ask the staff for the ideal parking area. You might even get free-of-charge for parking fee after paying the bill.

    Is Bui Vien street safe?

    The street is kept secured for tourists by undercover police & local businesses. However, be aware of the pick-pocket risks when the street gets more and more crowded at night. Here are some useful tips to keep you out of troubles and have fun safely:

    • Hide your valuables to avoid the wild robbery.
      • Ignore the sellers if you don’t want to buy something (say “no” is useless sometimes)
    • Staffs at pubs & restaurant will get your back when you’re in trouble
    • Check the price before ordering anything
    • People smoke Marijuana is technically illegal,

    Note: Most of the locals in this area can speak English in case you need any help.  

    What is Bui Vien street closing time?

    Bui Vien street opening hours may depend on weekdays or weekends. The bars and restaurants often start around 6 PM, get most crowded at 10 PM and dozens of bars or pubs stay open until 2:00 AM or even later. The street never sleeps during the festive seasons. Explore yourself!

      • A Destination Guide to Travel Tuyen Quang, Vietnam

        A Destination Guide to Travel Tuyen Quang, Vietnam

        Off the beaten track destinations for those who seek desperately.

        Do a query about travelling Tuyen Quang on the search engine and the result may astonish you: only 135,000 sites, but of which actually only roughly 10 sites provide enough useful information to plan a trip. What happened?

        Located among famous Ha Giang, Cao Bang, Phu Tho but Tuyen Quang possesses an understated fame that attracts less visits than other provinces nearby, which means you are rarely annoyed by flocks of curious tourists. Indeed, the province has two major kinds of tourism attractions: the richness of historical sites and a couple of spectacular natural wonders that are worth sightseeing once or twice.

        The province is nationwide popular for its Tan Trao Historical Site for its contribution as the Resistance base before the August 1945 Revolution. As a result, this has become a main attraction to the former soldiers and individuals who once fought during the war and now would love to go back for memory.

        Curious tourists also pay visits to the area to enrich their knowledge and experience. Beside historical values to explore, the spectacular natural landscape is also a precious gem of the destination, especially Na Hang Nature Reserve. The site sports various worth sightseeing spots and is definitely a must for nature lovers.

        Last but not least, those two main attractions are among the most famous destinations for common tourists when travelling to Tuyen Quang. Indeed, there are also note-worthy spots scattered in the region. Let’s take a look at those belows.

        My Bang tea plantation hills (Đồi chè Mỹ Bằng)

        During my first ride through the province, those tea hills in My Bang commune caught my eyes with an extreme surprise. As far as I know, the northern provinces well-known for the long-history of tea cultivation are Thai Nguyen (“Fish Hook” tea) and Ha Giang (Shan Snow tea) with successful commercials, while others like Moc Chau town, Son La have become popular destinations for tourism recently. These tea farmlands in Tuyen Quang are still a new phenomenon for keen travellers. Let’s join the first wave of visitors before the area become more and more crowded in the future

        Ban Ba Waterfall (Thác Bản Ba)

        Sourced from a limestone mountain range of Ha Giang at an almost 1,000m high elevation, the nationally classified landscape lies between the mountain Phieng Khang (núi Phiêng Khàng) in Ban Ba village, Trung Ha commune, Chiem Hoa district. The 3-kilometer-long waterfall features 3 levels, whose names for the first one is “Tát Củm”, the second is “Tát Cao” and the third is “Tát Gió”. Between these levels are smaller falls of 5m – 7m high. The waterfall is immersed in the rainforest with vines and ancient trees, which are even hundred years old. At the foot of the fall are fertile paddy fields by the Tày minority village hidden in the dense palms.

        Phu Lam Spring (Suối khoáng Phú Lâm)

        My finding about this so-called hot spring was quite surprisingly interesting. It turned out a whole area could offer that pampering experience, even local hotels (do they really just dig holes and enjoy hot baths all year round?). The most considerable facility belongs to My Lam Spring (Suối khoáng Mỹ Lâm) by Ha Phu company, located on a hill with various kinds of bathing and massage service along with accommodation. However, the recent reviews (first half of 2021) were mostly negative, massively focusing on the old facility, service and price. After all, the area is still a good choice to drop by during chill winters.

        Mac Ancient Citadel (Thành nhà Mạc)

        How astonishing it is, that the historical & cultural relic is indeed located at … a roundabout in the heart of Tuyen Quang city. The so-called “Citadel” is merely one of the few remaining monuments of the Mac Dynasty in Vietnamese history, scattered throughout the North. It is one of the ancient architectural wonders in this area, but sadly the  restoration a decade ago took its majestic ancient beauty away.

        Na Hang Nature Reserve

        First of all, this is a HUGE area that may require a lot of time to explore, but if you are a true wanderer in search of true wilderness, this destination won’t let you down with a cluster of pristine lakes and waterfalls in particular, all well connected to the major flows of the region – Gam River (sông Gâm) & Lo River (sông Lô). Moreover, these two rivers join together very close to the Na Hang town. The popular itinerary for common tourists to Na Hang Nature Reserve is to start from a local homestay (near Thuong Lam market, Khuon Ha commune) to embark on boat tour cruising along Gam River to explore remarkable waterfalls like Khuoi Nhi (thác Khuổi Nhi), Nam Me (thác Nặm Mè) and the heart of the journey is the majestic Na Hang reservoir.

        (In the neighborhood, there is a ethnic village named Ban Bon (Bản Bon) with emerging homestay service. During your homestay in Ban Bon, don’t miss a chance to visit Pai Po Cave (Hang Pài Bó) with locals, as you rarely find any news about this pristine cave on the Internet.)

        An alternative option is to stay in Na Hang town, and start a longer route through Lo River, then Gam River, with an optional turn to Nang River (sông Năng), before reaching the aforementioned falls. Mo Waterfall (thác Mơ) is also a popular destination which is a few kilometers away from the town.

        Tan Trao Historical Site

        This is probably the most renowned destination of Tuyen Quang province so far. The storied cluster of the former resistance base is located in Tan Trao, a small valley between mountains and jungles in Son Duong District. The main places of interest include Tan Trao Communal House, Hong Thai Communal House, Tan Trao Banyan tree and a small jungle hut where President Ho Chi Minh lived from June to August 1945.

        Tan Trao was once a temporary capital of the independent section of Vietnam, where the Vietnamese Communist Party held several crucial meetings to the founding of the nation, especially during August 1945.

        Despite the fact that most of the attractions are quite far from one another in distance, the good traffic and street conditions are a plus for road trips across the province. Travelling Tuyen Quang should not be a hop-on-hop-off experience. Indeed, you’d better take your time to enjoy the splendid mountains and paddy fields en route before putting your feet in front of a remarkable waterfall or a singular lake.

      • Wild food you should try once in Central highland

        Wild food you should try once in Central highland

        Food is a great way to explore a country culture.

        So I bet you might find it adventurous trying this food.

        But it is worthy, maybe you would love it or hate it, but a lifetime moment tasting something new, right?

        Ok, let’s try these typical food when in Central highland of Vietnam.

        1. DRIED-BEEF (Bò một nặng)

        It cost me 14$ for 0.5 kg of the special dried beef.

        I will explain a little bit why it should be in your checklist. We usually enjoy smoked bacon, a kinda pork put in salt and smoke but this one require a special marinade including garlic, onion, lemongrass, chilli along with salt, sugar,seasoning and chilli paste, well-mixed then massaging the beef with the mixture then getting it dried under scorching sun within 9 hour and done! When you have a picnic, put the cut on red charcoal grill and tear it apart with your bare hand (recommended) or chop into pieces.

        2. ANT SALT (muối kiến vàng)

        The next might be weird on your judge but the taste is awesome, trust me, this salty mixture, a good “friend” of the above beef cut, is made of ants, and these tiny creatures taste sour and smell so unique that I bet you would never taste anything similar before (otherwise, tell me what it is).

        3. Tube/stem wine

        If you are in France or California, I would suggest a red wine, but in Central highland of Vietnam, tube/stem wine is a must.

        Originally, the highland people collect special leaves to create a particular enzyme to produce a wine that the local people would prefer using a tube (or a long straw) to enjoy. And when it runs out, just pouring drinkable water and “happy together” again.

        So all you need to do is to tear a bit of beef cut, dip it into the ant mixture, chewing the beautiful taste and drink off a tube wine. That makes an amazing highland night, no doubt!

        To reveal where the best place to get a cut, it is Gia Lai specialty.

        Ask the host for “bò một nắng” when you are in the region and share your experience, how taste it is.

      • Best beaches to visit in Phu Quoc island

        Best beaches to visit in Phu Quoc island

        On my journey to every provinces in Vietnam, I was surprisingly stunned by gorgeously best beaches in Phu Quoc. I do enjoy vitamin-sea, and the beaches in the ‘Pearl’ island are just wonderful.

        Home to some of the most beautiful beaches in the world, Phu Quoc features serene resorts well suited to relax, have fun with family, and experience aquatic adventure. But on the other side, the island also welcomes solo travelers with its natural solitude to immerse into. In this post, we’ll look at some of the best beaches in Phu Quoc.

        Ganh Dau beach (Gành Dầu)

        On the northwest-most point of the island, Ganh Dau is a little serene corner of flour-white sand fringed by the line of coconut. Water is still and shallow, with a cluster of wooden fishing boats anchored offshore. Interestingly, You can even see the several Cambodian islands just a few kilometers away with its blue silhouettes turning fantasies when sun rises and sets. It was exactly what I enjoyed with my travel buddy years ago. We two lay on an ancient coral rock, cheered with cans of beer, some peanut packs and watched the sun disappearing gradually into the skyline. In fact, Ganh Dau is named for the entire northwestern cape, consisting of the picturesque fishing fleet by the calm harbour, next to a bustling fishing town with an active market, local life and, of course, street food. That’s why Ganh Dau is one of my best beaches in Phu Quoc without any doubts.

        Ham Ninh fishing village

        Once a thriving port, Ham Ninh now features fresh seafood and serene landscape. In fact, Ham Ninh doesn’t really have a beach, instead, a cluster of dwellings made out of concrete & corrugated-iron and surrounding a small river mouth, where a long pier reaches into the sea. Nowadays, boats no longer dock here, that pier turns into a seafood-market-cum-outdoor-restaurant. As home to informal eateries and street food stalls, it is particularly popular with budget travelers, who always seek the best and freshest seafood with reasonable price. The pier is definitely an ideal spot for sunset seafood dining.

        Duong Dong town & harbour

        In the middle of the western coast, the sprawling town is a busy, hustling place where you possibly explore specialty food like “bún khèn” without effort. On the harbour anchors the fleet of wooden tour boats while a new narrow pier stretches to the sea to welcome gigantic cruise ships. There is a beach next to Dinh Cau temple, which is perfect for travelers to sunbathe and watch boats moving back and forth, especially at sunset. It is noted that the beach is littered and crowded on golden hours. The nightlife is also a “specialty” of Duong Dong town with a night market consisting of street food vendors and informal food stalls (Rolled ice-cream and flavoured peanut). During the day, you would probably like to visit the ornate Cao Dai temple which is just a stone’s throw away from the night market.

        Long beach (Bãi Trường)

        Stretching for almost 20km along the southwestern coast of Phu Quoc, Long Beach features yellow sand backed with rows of coconut along. Long beach is home to some of the most high-end resorts like InterContinental Phu Quoc Long Beach (I had a chance to experience in 2019, the beach is ultimately one of the best destinations for sunset, especially viewpoint from the highest bar of Phu Quoc – Ink360), as well as other pampering properties of colossuses like Novotel, Hyatt, etc. Despite the increasing development in construction, you still find serene facets when riding off the main road to the beachward to access some nice swimming spots and enjoy lifestyle bars like Golden Sand Bar, Shri Bar and Sunset Sanato Beach Club,to name a few!

        Khem beach (Bãi Khem)

        It was my first ever trip to Phu Quoc in 2016 that I had a chance to glance at Khem beach at its purest nature along with a few food shacks for the public access. At dawn, you can even buy the freshest seafood from the fishing boats at a very reasonable price. Now, the beach is home to some of the most luxurious resorts on the island like JW Marriott Emerald Bay and Premier Residences that I visited during a fam trip at the end of 2018. I was particularly impressed by the luxury property of Marriott, whose concept is based on the idea of a fictional university “La Marck”. The slender concrete road leads, along a steep and jungled hillside by the sea, to Ong Doi Cape on which upscale property of Premier Village managed by AccorHotels locates. The secluded area features white villas, including some top-ends even built on stilts over the rocky bay and sandy coves. This place is a wonderland to stay, if you can afford the rate!

        Sao beach (Bãi Sao)

        Distinctive turquoise water, a long and attractive stretch of white sand as ice-cream with arcing coconut trees, Sao Beach is one of the best beaches in Phu Quoc and it is accessible to the public. To visit Sao beach at its best, here is the plan: Wake up early at dawn, take a ride to the beach, watch sunrise here, stroll along the stunning sandy bay then you can enjoy a lazy morning with delicious breakfast and fresh coconut before flocks of tourists occupy the beach.

        Dam Beach (Bãi Dăm)

        Accessed via a scenic concrete road, Bai Dam is a wide bay of jungle by the sea. The most popular attraction here is Ho Quoc Pagoda with the colossal statue of Goddess of Mercy (Quan Âm) and a cluster of shrines, sculptures of Buddism deities and staircases. This is where you enjoy the calm of surroundings, do religious practice or just find your inner voice while observing the beautiful landscape. The religious complex looks over the serene bay with a lapping sea, making it a worldwide excursion.

        Dai Beach (Bãi Dài)

        With the long stretch of fine sand and turquoise water, Dai Beach is now occupied by luxurious integrated resorts like Vinpearl, where you will indulge in experiences in recreation park, play with friends in waterpark, try some golf game at green courses, safari, try finding your luck with gambles in casino and stay overnight in glamour villas. This is definitely a place for leisure fans!

      • Best Camping Site in Ho Coc, Vietnam

        Best Camping Site in Ho Coc, Vietnam

        A fantastic spot for weekend camping (and selfies)!

        For a long time, Ho Coc is famous for its picturesque coastal road with beautiful sea and beach resorts as well as local restaurants hidden inside casuarina forest in Ba Ria – Vung Tau province.

         Sunrise in Ho Coc beach

        Half a decade ago, the route was still a sleeping beauty, pristine and secluded. Years later, the construction of coastal resorts began to develop, awakening the “lady”. The earliest five-star resort was The Grand Ho Tram Strip, along with its brother Ho Tram Bluff golf course. They were striking landmarks standing alone by the massive beach that ignited the dream for a luxury holiday at that time (My dream came true 5 years later in a Fam Trip in the role of an editor working for a luxury magazine).

         Far far away is The Grand Ho Tram resort

        Time flew by and most of the constructions were suspended, leaving behind a coastal landscape full of abandoned areas with long lines of fence and wall and “unauthorized person is not allowed here” signs.

         The restaurant-cum-campsite

        However, covid is a game changer and Ho Coc as well as Ho Tram now look like Mui Ne at its primitive stage, with awakening power and a cluster of high-end residences and resorts drop on, side by side. The pivotal development stuns me considerably as a traveler who has observed the region for quite a long time. One of the latest five-star beach resort in the neighborhood recently – Meliá Ho Tram is such a popular choice for luxury leisure experience.

        For years, the coastal route is still one of my favorites but I have not stayed overnight here since 2014. Even before, I merely chose well-equipped motels. This time I picked a camping site in Ho Coc to practice some camping skills. Here is what I found.

        The campsite at a glance

        Indeed, this was originally a restaurant but now the owner expands the service to meet the new demand as camping is now kinda trendy in Vietnam recently.

        Modern travellers seek to immerse themselves among natural backgrounds, around a campfire with grilled food and acoustic music (they often prefer portable bluetooth speakers in case there’s no guitarist in the band).

         The entrance to the wooden bridge is “guarded” by a couple of old cannons

        Back to my time camping here. To be honest, I did enjoy the solitude at night here. How immersively natural it is! The site also houses a crowded pack of dogs and somehow, they were really noisy during my night in the tent.

         Boiling water for morning coffee

        Imagine how annoying it was when they barked and howled all night, but in contrast, these “guardian angels” made me feel safe and sound, at least in case some thief plans on my belongings.

        You may wonder where is the best position to pitch your camp: on grass, sand or wooden platforms, in open areas or under a canopy.

        Here are my thoughts: grass and sand are best as they are like a natural mattress, contributing greatly to your good sleep in a tent. But don’t stay on high grass or bushes as they attract reptiles and insects. Grass is usually wet as fog drops on at dawn, so it is also humid and cool.

         A pack of dog left its track on sand

        Sand is perfect for campfires, they are soft too, like a good mattress under the tent floor.

        The wooden platform is often used as a balcony for view by the lake (the upper platform indeed is used for ceremonies during gala dinners or large group celebrations). It is dry to camp but the open area means the tent is fully exposed to sunshine and gets pretty hot after 9:00 am till sunset.

        During dry days, I prefer to pitch my tent under the shade of a canopy for fabric protection and cool fresh atmosphere. However, this location turns pretty badly in the rains and storms.

        The problem is trees act as lightning rods in thunderstorms while branches also potentially fall during and after heavy rain and storms. So it depends on the weather and the number of members to choose a suitable area to camp.

         Wood pile for campfire

        As a restaurant originally, the camp site is able to serve you seafood, chilled drinks and refreshments, which is very convenient in case you don’t prepare adequately.

         Sandy yard for group campfire

        The bathroom area is just brick-and-cement built but clean, like ones you see in restaurants on most of the public beaches in Vietnam.

         Parking space is huge, ready for big groups of travelling buy cars, pick-ups

        Last but not least, the campsite is super clean and clear, as the ground is frequently cleaned by staff. It definitely elevates the outdoor experience and is also a good reason to stay in a paid campsite.

         The host’s lodge – where you can buy stuff like chilled cokes and take bathroom

        The littering at natural sites across Vietnam like popular mountains, streams or waterfalls is very concerning. So while local awareness is still a controversial problem, I recommend staying at a paid site for a good experience instead of being annoyed by piles of trash.

         The camp site has a cluster of hut for individual and group dinning

        Activities at the campsite

        The first moment of the day, I recommend a stroll or yoga exercise by the beach, not to mention the selfie at dawn. Very fresh and clear. Panoramic vista will definitely knock you out. It was such a very gorgeous sunrise that I couldn’t stand staying inside my tent.

         A yoga on the beach at dawm, why not ?!

        Then you might consider taking photos around the campsite and I bet you would not miss the wooden bridge floating on the laguna with nice wooden seats as well. Actually I had a wonderful coffee time there, happily enjoying the early sunrise as well as seeing myself on the reflective water surface like a giant mirror.

        For teambuilding, the host also provides an inflatable boat for rent at a fee of 200,000 vnd/ hour (I don’t know whether lifevest is free of charge). It is such a pity that there’s no rental camp available here, so you have to pack all on your own.

         The inflatable boat for rent

        Reasonable fee for “camp-aholics”

        The owner charges 60,000 VND/ person for a night at the site (last updated on March 2021). Remember camp check-out at 10:00 am, in case you would like to stay longer, all pay in advance and free to leave no matter what time.

        The parking fee may vary, depending on the size of the vehicle (my bicycle cost zero, while my findings on reviews show that a car was charged 60,000 VND for parking).

        Other campsites in the neighborhood

        Beside Ho Coc, there are also some spots in Ho Tram allowing travelers to put up tents like Lê Minh Hồ Tràm,… They are indeed beach lodge & restaurant with extended facilities for camping so the basic facilities like restaurant and bathroom are usually available for daily use.

        The fee may vary, you can contact via phone number on the map app in advance to get more information and potential pitch for good bargains.

      • A Guide to Hon Tre Island, Vietnam

        A Guide to Hon Tre Island, Vietnam

        Merely 45 minutes away from Rạch Giá port, Kiên Giang, Bamboo Isle (Hòn Tre) is a small yet pretty, promising island to travel. But whether a little bit off-the-beaten-path destination is always among good choices for all? Read the story below to find out (with some useful tips & guidance included)!

        My story

        On my road trip by bicycle to Mekong Delta as well as the cluster of islands in the region, Hon Tre seemed very promising: small, good review but little coverage on the internet, which probably meant no overtourism yet. So I embarked on a boat of a local transport company for less than an hour to reach the island, with camping intention in mind.

         The journey reminded me days in the popular islands in Vietnam like Cát Bà, Phú Quý and Côn Đảo

        The sunset was stunningly gorgeous, the sea bird even followed the boat while small waves embraced the moving vehicles. It reminded me of days in the popular islands in Vietnam like Cát Bà, Phú Quý and Côn Đảo.

         Transit service price list in Hòn Tre

        Right the first steps on the island, I was advised (quite compulsory for a traveler) to register for covid 19 report at the checkpoint (say, you will have to write down your syndromes if any, the departure and some personal information for contact in need, which is popular in Vietnam these days).

         I rushed quickly around to enjoy the twilight in time

        On my arrival, the taxi bike first approached to have me travel to some guest houses or certain destinations around on the island (the price list is written in Vietnamese sadly). As I had the bicycle along and my own plan to enjoy camping, the taxi rider friendly suggested me to the only beach on the island: Chén Beach (Bãi Chén). It was sunset but almost turn to twilight in minutes. So I took my chance to ride around and enjoyed the moment as quickly as I could.

         Cycling around Hòn Tre is a real challenge!

        Uphills and downhills, steeply and perpetually. So adventurous, so exciting. The journey required me to maneuver swiftly, to change gears smoothly or miss the momentum, resulting in walking uphills. The brake sometimes was so hot that it smelt like burnt metal.

         The construction at the pristine side of the island

        It took me around half an hour to ride on coastal road, exploring through communes with local life, food, public park, forested cliff by the gentle sea, as well as “the other side of heaven” – the waste factory construction, close to trash dumps, which were still burning with toxic smoke.

        By the time I visited Chen Beach, it was twilight. The accommodation facility was still a work-in-progress, so there was no overnight option but a little chance to go on camping (which depends on the owner’s will, in my case, it was a failure officially, but you might be lucky).

         Camping on Chén Beach of Hòn Tre: Better think twice!

        I gave up the  camping idea after minutes to persuade the host. My last enquiry was to find accommodation at a reasonable price. Returned and I explored a couple of guest houses around the town center, which is marked by a gigantic government complex, and found one matching my budget eventually.

        It is an interesting fact that this is the ONLY in the area (a cluster of island including Nam Du & Lại Sơn) located an ATM (of Agribank). That’s quite lucky for me as I supposed every island probably was set up an ATM for tourists and locals.

        How to reach Hon Tre

         Inside one of the well-equipped guest cabin of Superdong ship

        There are various choices but the premium is Superdong, you have a large air-conditioned cabin, decent seats, but the schedule is one-shot per day: only at 6:45 from Rach Gia (to Hon Tre at 7:20).

         The cabin of the local shipline operator is jam-packed with passengers.

        There are other local boatline operators with more flexible schedules like Muoi Dung, Khanh Dung with 4 departure times (7:00, 10:00, 14:00, 16:00). Same price 70,000 VND/ pax. These locals even nod to transport small vehicles (like the 100/150cc motorbikes which are very popular in Vietnam), but their boats are old and small, jam-packed with frequent passengers and loud hard sound from the open-hooded engine at the back.

         Passengers enjoy the sunset on the front deck

        The speed was so slow that some men even sat on the cabin roof (along the front deck as usual). I had used to take on Superdong before (the trip to Nam Du) so the local taste was my call this time and it turned out to be such a memorable experience.

        Accommodation

        There’s probably no hotels but 4 – 5 motels among choices. A few ones look old and rustic while the other is standardly neat and clean, price ranges from 180,000 VND (fanned room)/ 200,000 VND (air-conditioned) up to 400,000 VND (air-conditioned double beds). All gather at the town center (just one kilometer to the west of the port) so you should find no problem getting a bed safe and sound.

        Attractions

         Chén Beach in twilight time

        After a late afternoon around, I found Hon Tre less attractive to wanderers partly due to its lack of interesting destinations to nail in: There’s only a church in the isle and a pristine Chén beach. Furthermore, the beach is not really joyful to swim in, except for some selfie shots with an abandoned path on stilts (plus no accommodation available) and that’s all. My greatest moment was riding on the coastal road, painted in such a beautiful sunset.

        Food

         A bowl of rice noodle (bánh canh)

        As not really struck hard by waves of mass tourism, the island is basically different from the other, like there’s no “tourism market” (mostly serving tourists with specialties and various seafood) by the port. Instead, a local market is located beside the public park, selling normal stuff and street food.

         The local market is located beside the public park, selling normal stuff and street food

        The price is expected to be the same as inland, some more reasonable. The price for 1kg of jackfruit ranges from 20,000-30,000 VND, a rice noodle bowl (bánh canh) costs 25,000 VND, while a glass of condensed-milk-mixed-bean-paste is surprisingly only 10,000 VND.

        Moving on next day?

         Superdong ticket agency on Hòn Tre – inside a cafe by the port

        In case the island get you bored soon, so you may like to get up early next day and rush to the cafe close to the port at 15 minutes to 7:00, to get boat tickets to Lại Sơn (aka Hòn Sơn) or Nam Du, or return backward Rạch Giá. Remember to drop by the covid 19 checkpoint for reporting before embarking. Have a nice trip!

      • Trekking on Hòn Sơn, Việt Nam: A Guide to Ông Rồng mountain

        Trekking on Hòn Sơn, Việt Nam: A Guide to Ông Rồng mountain

        A pleasure hiking for a spectacular panorama and camping overnight in the pristine “paradise island”.

        Compared to Ma Thien Lanh mountain (Núi Ma Thiên Lãnh), Ông Rồng is definitely less challenging with just 250m high above sea level. The entrance to the trail is just less than one kilometer in distance from Bac Beach (Bãi Bấc) and marked with a small guide signboard.

        The name “Ông Rồng” (the Dragon) is actually derived from the ancient cycad at the top, whose shape looks like an aggressive dragon, grandly lying on the giant rock and watching all over the island.

        The life span of this best-known cycad is estimatedly up to 300 years old, by counting the number of whorls on leaf scars on stems to determine how many annual or biennial leaf productions have occurred.

        Just a stone’s throw away is a couple of “fairy” rock tables. The rumour has it that on calm nights, this is where fairies gather and play chess and have entertaining drinks together. Indeed, the gentle flat surface of the grand rock at the mountain top allows hikers to pitch camps overnight.

        The hiking only takes one hour for a leisure roundtrip, which makes it surprisingly ideal for common females. It doesn’t require a good stamina base and the trail is also as clearly guided as Ma Thien Lanh routes. It is such an excitingly immersive experience! However, it is advised not to trek after early sunset (5:00 pm) as some guide signs drawn on rocks may be rarely visible in pitch dark.

        The hiking goes through a primeval forest with a dense canopy and little open spaces (mostly near the top, which is located on giant rocks requiring hiker’s maneuvers) so it is pretty chill even at noon and the echo of insects and birds would awaken your ears. From time to time, hikers may come into a wild jackfruit tree or java apple.

        Somewhere on the trail, there would be signs of heavy erosion on slope, which exposes the enormous roots of ancient trees and interestingly creates natural staircases for easy access, but I bet it is still rough and slippery on rainy days.

        However, there has been no rest stop yet, even a refreshment vendor, coffees or a pagoda (Indeed, there was only one rest stop that had been under construction in April 2021).

        So hikers had better prepare adequately beforehand, at least a few refreshments and several bottles of water for vital needs during the hike, as well as sporty dressing with “breathing” clothes for more comfortable experience.

        For the sign boards guiding throughout the trail, instead of the words of encouragement like those in Ma Thien Lanh mountain, they are often reminders to protect the local environment through discouraging litter as well as raising the community awareness with some concerning facts of harmful impact of plastic to nature. Most of the messages are written on decorated wooden badges, beside some acrylic sheets.

        The local hosts usually offer a guided tour for only 200,000 vnd but now it is indeed possible to hike on your own. So it’s your call to support the local economy or travel on a budget.