An extremely compelling experience awaits you on Hòn Sơn.
One of my favorites during trip on Hòn Sơn is to enjoy swimming in turquoise sea with diverse marine world and also take part in continually trekking on steep trails through dense forests with giant and ancient trees to reach the top of the mountains and enjoy panoramic vista towards the coastal road bending like a snake, clusters of coconut, emerald sea ornate with rocks like eggs in various sizes, all under such a blue clear sky. In Hòn Sơn, these activities are possible to be experienced within one day. Fantastic!
My typical schedule with a trekking option in mind: wake up early at 5:30 for sunrise, then have a cup of coffee at 6:30 while reading news online (the 4G coverage in the campsite is awesome). Around 7:00 (maybe later if the news is so interesting), it’s breakfast time and a lazy break to automatically sort out new stuff in the stomach. Full energy, full eagerness, let’s get trekking: I will follow trails to the top, enjoy the stunning view, return to the accomodation after 2-4 hour trekking to have a small lunch before swim in turquoise water and sunbathe on a big rock with coconut. That’s sooo nice!
During my trip on Hòn Sơn, I picked Ma Thiên Lãnh peak for the first day, and Ông Rồng for the day later. There’s no identical experience. That’s why you should try both, but don’t be too excited to rush hard: it would destroy your mood. One trek per day is a perfect schedule. Your body needs an entire rejuvenation, your memory should forget a bit so that two treks wouldn’t look too familiar!
The guidance is quite specific in both route, so it is unlikely that you would get lost unintentionally. The trails are clear path, with small signboards hung interestingly on the trees, some are even made of wood with colorful hand-written letters. They plays not only the guidance but also raising trekkers’ awareness of protecting local environment by not littering during the trip.
As you would hike through primitive forests, it is very cool and moisture most of the time: at noon, you are even under dappled shades of the tall plants. Your nose will be attracted by good fresh smell, while the natural sounds – bird, cicada, crawling swarm of ant and so on – echo closeby.
One attention: it is advised to start the trek before 16:00 as the light rays rarely penetrate through forest canopy with high density, which increases the risk of getting lost as well as low maneuverability in the pitch darkness.
Beside the similarity, each trekking route also carries some fascinating distinctive features, revealed below, firstly, Ma Thiên Lãnh. (you may like to use the pictures for guiding reference).
Ma Thiên Lãnh trekking route
On Hòn Sơn locate 7 mountains attached one another, among which Ma Thiên Lãnh becomes the most popular as the highest peak of the isle at 450m high above mean sea level, as well as the most storied mythologies. It is rumoured that once upon the time, the “fairy yard” at the peak and cluster of caves were the shelters of anonymous anchorites to practice meditation. Time flew and all mysterious stories became bygones. Nowadays, Ma Thiên Lãnh plays a “must” experience for whoever visiting Hòn Sơn and the well-positioned guidance aids more attraction to this well-known sight.
I started my trek from the entrance near Xếp Beach (Bãi Xếp) with more natural settings than ones close to the downtown. However, at very first steps, you will be served with a series of cement (or neatly stack-rocked) staircase as there are few residents living on the slope and growing plantation of mango, banana, soursop and so on.
At the very beginning of the journey, you will notice different faunas, this kind of pineapple includedThe guide signs are drawn very close to one another so that the trekkers are unlikely to get lost (unless the visibility is low when it gets dark)(Left) “Thạch Tiền stream 250m”; (Right) “100m”“The legendary tree – 500m”(Left) “Hammock rest stop – 50m – Thạch Tiền stream”; (Right) “Ma Thiên Lãnh 1100m”The trail leads through the local plantation: do not havest the produce, such as banana or mangoThe hammock rest stop of an old lady. You may take a short break and enjoy some refreshment while swinging at ease on the hammocksThere are even 4 guide signs at one area – no chance to get lost!The stacked trunks with natural holes on the surfaceThạch Tiền stream, where pipelines are installed by the locals to collect water for daily use“500m”“Legendary tree – 500m”The stunning scale of the legenary treeThe intersection: Go left (the alternative entrace close to the downtown) or go right (continue to the top of the mountain)The trail becomes more challenging due to the erosion. “Dangerous area”, says the sign.(Left) “Dangerous area”; (Right) “Come on, I <3 U”A passageway is made magically of two giant stone block, one of which is an ideal shelter for campingRed words says: “standing rock – Towards Ma Thiên Lãnh”(Left) “2/3 already, c’mon folks”Follow the arrow, it’s very close to the top“Are you hungry”, asks letters on the rock.(Left) “Welcome”“(You) made it successfully”A religious poem written on the rock, which is rumouredly of anchoritesA narrow passage in the cave is naturally set up by giant rocksClimbing on the ladder, then rock by rock. There is actually an altar of worship insideThe final ladder to the top!
More pictures at the Ma Thiên Lãnh peak:
A speedboat far far away
On the way back, I went down at the aforementioned intersection, followed the trail to the entrance close to the downtown and was very surprised at the restaurants and rest stops along the path. The signs were also very clear for guidance!
Back to the intersection and follow the alternative route to downwardCrossing a small stream to reach a pagoda. There is a steep concrete driveway here for motorbike traveling downward, or you can follow the sign along the trail to the local’s rest stopThe path is clean and clearStretching feet on the hammock at Mr Thanh’s rest stop
Mr Thanh’s rest stop made a deep impression on me: so natural friendly, so cool with tiny colorful decoration as well as a menu of varrious and delicious mountain chicken dishes, from hot pot to steam or stir, soup and salad.
A washbasin is installed on the stump, with running water from the streams and a big wild mushroom (it look likes wooden) at the footTiny handmade flower pots around the rest stopDecorated swing for the selfiesA cycad tree (cây thiên tuế) in the garden. “Cycads are seed plants with a very long fossil history that were formerly more abundant and more diverse than they are today” (Wikipedia)
Tips: To get fresh and hot food plates on arrival, remember to call for booking before hand (at least 30 minutes) so that the friendly host (they are a family actualky) is able to well prepare and serve you at best.
My recommendation for a short break without chicken meals in case you don’t plan to have lunch here: swinging on a hammock with a cool coconut!
Hammock relax or a table full of hot dishes of mountain chicken?
Leaving the rest stop to continue downward, I noticed there were plenty of artificial constrution on this side, so it is generally less natural.
An observation hut on stilts within a garden of cashew treeA male mountain chicken walking aroundBushes of bamboo and pipelines collects water from streamsA curve at the end of the path, which joins the motorbike route from the pagodaA homestay is being constructed on the hillside with the spectacular vista of the island’s natureThe entrance is not too far from the downtown, where an old lady sell refreshment and you can aid her life by buying stuffs
A hike through 13,000 years of human civilization evolution and five continents in less than 600 pages.
This book was actually a big deal to me, since it focuses mainly on the history and geography, in contrast to the first English book of the new year challenge – Brave New World, which heavily depicted a fictional universe in the far future. Truth be told. Some sessions of this work really discouraged me as it presented such an enormous number of examples in boring scientific approaches, coupled with a long line of ancient flora & fauna names that I had to frequently look up in the search engine to get the picture. It’s like you were following a jungle trail and the feeling was extremely overwhelming, but when you got acquainted with the flow, everything turned into a big interest.
That is how the reader is gradually seduced by the thick book of Jared Diamond – an American geographer, historian, ornithologist, and author best known for the popular science books. After finishing the book, I have to admit that the long summary at first pages really bored me, but looking back, I see how logically the content structure was arranged, in a well-thought order with surprisingly good coherence.
So, to the main point, how will the book get us travel through time in the long period of 13,000 years before as well as explore the reason why only some regions and nations on Earth enjoy such ideal conditions to grow to powerful kingdoms, conquering the world in the Medieval Age and securing a good position in the Modern Time while the other stand no chance?
Everything starts with a big question (and you would run into a great deal of questions throughout the book as the author raises himself and explains logically himself). Unlike most of the pop science books which tell history like stories, Jared’s work uses various scientific approaches to reveal the history, and successfully to persuade readers that the long long history of humanity had to happen that way, nothing else. That’s his smart answer to the aforementioned question!
Beside these scientific aspects, the book hooks me through a dozen of field experiences of the author himself in some of the off-the-beaten-track countries like Papua New Guinea, which is just less than 100 miles away to the north of well-known Australia. The country now sports a wide array of eco-diversity and tribal cultures, but also at the edge of the most dangerous destinations for foreigners (type yourself a query about traveling to Papua New Guinea and you would come across a couple of the travel safety concerns right at the first pages of the search engine). So the deep field knowledge of this less-travelled country will be worth your time. In addition to Papua New Guinea, the book also enriches readers with the history of Down Under in terms of geography and anthropology. If you have ever (or wished to) travelled to far-flung islands of the continent like Fiji or Samoa, the stories add interesting cultural facts beside the mere paradise landscape like most travelers covered. Australia and New Zealand are also mentioned in the book and I believe you will find them more interesting after digesting this work of Jared Diamond.
The book also dedicates a chapter for the impact of germs (or the most catastrophic diseases in human history) to the order of the world. Some stories are quite merely funny, but they explain the origin of the popular diseases, the evolution of microbes throughout history and their remarkable effects on the feats of the conquers. During the pandemic covid, this chapter did hook me from the first pages to the last ones.
Other main points of the book to reveal the fate of different continents and nations include the choice of food production methods – hunting-gathering or sedentary lifestyle of the tribes due to the geographic condition and indigenous culture. The axes of the continents also contribute surprisingly to the wealth and the development of those lands. Some attractive countries to the globetrotters like China, Japan or those of the Black Continent also share their stories in separate chapters, especially the answer to the controversial origin and the paradox of development that would astonish keen readers to the last chapters.
Tons of amazing things to see and do on this tropical paradise and this Hon Son island travel guide dare get you through the jungle of spectacular spots!
Why Hon Son island, Vietnam?
At the first sight, I was knocked down by its dramatically majestic beauty: pristine beach lined with coconuts, well, there’s indeed a forest of coconuts on the island.
Disembarking from the express ferry of the Superdong operator, I was spontaneously feeling the dynamic life of the island while walking on the bridge toward the crowded central residence.
The islanders and tourists moving fast back and forth the backbone of the boat dock. Not so far, the platoon of colorful fishing boats anchored a couple hundred of meters offshore, floating up and down, or moving around the turquoise water. Another adventure awaits!
Coastal Road on Hon Son island, Vietnam
The first thing I would like to do on an island is to ride around. Whatever it was Con Dao or Phu Quy isle (but the larger ones like Phu Quoc or Cat Ba may require a whole one or two days, it’s still worth it after all).
The short journeys around give me the best sense of the island, whether this destination is pristine or overcrowded, how its seaside scenery looks like.
So a small island like this Hon Son island, I would recommend you to take a short circuit around the island first, just a couple of hours but it’s full of interest, most are best spots to experience, like an appetizer before the main courses in next days.
Riding on this road is such a remarkable experience that you won’t want to miss any chance. Like Nam Du or Hon Tre island nearby, the road is closed round and every part has its own fun and interest. I will tell you in the clockwise order, from the harbour first.
The Southwestern Harbour (Cầu cảng Bãi Nhà)
This little town is your very first glance at the local living of Hon Son island after disembarking from the express ferry. From here, you can call the host to transit to the accommodation then get a rental motorbike to travel around right away.
The town is also where you can buy most goods in the local grocery. On weekdays, the night market here is quiet, but things change on the weekend, when the locals open their various food stalls to serve the tourists.
You may get attracted by this colorful decorated bar like this on Hon Son island!
Moving away from the harbour and the landscape changes gradually from a crowded tourist hub to a quieter space, with shallow beach, lazy waves in sea and the rock platform protruding to make small capes. The trees on the roadside are ideal shelters to hide from the glowing sun at noon. Why not take a sip on some nice place like the little highly-decorated bar on picture above.
Rái Cá homestay
As one of the first homestay on the island, Rái Cá homestay looks like a travel complex, featuring an outdoor restaurant by the cliff, where you can pose on a swing (but be careful) along with various styled rooms on the other side. I prefer to chill here most of the day: have breakfast in the morning and get some chilled beer while admiring the sunset. The painting and doodles and writing are all funny and chill.
The fishing village
This is where you find the most of the local living. I got lost for the first (and second and third) time, as the map app was useless due to the density of residents and the overlapped roofs make it impossible to draw any road lines when watching from the above. This is where I buy some food and beverages to enjoy the best sunset spot on the island, just nearby.
Sunset watching spot
Following the coastal road just a few hundreds of meters, there you see a yard with lying rocks where you have a sit and watch the sun go down gorgeously at the end of the day, when the fishing boat moves back home, drawing lines on the water.
Bãi Đá
Located in the north of the island, this is not an ideal place for swimming as it is stacked densely by hundreds of rocks. But this view is stunning for posing on the rock (I traveled solo so there was no beautiful model to test). As my experience tell that there is a lot of sea creatures living around these rocks to explore and watch (or you may want to collect for a delicious grill in the evening at homestay). There are also premium resorts situated here.
North Harbour (Bãi Bấc)
There are two harbours but this one in the North is quieter while the other in the South is more touristy as it welcomes the express ferry full of tourists. Your frame should hardly overwhelmed by people moving around. The landscape is calm and still. Some local people come here for fishing. This area is also near the entrance to the hiking trail to Ông Rồng mountain top.
The mountainous road
There’s a route breaking through the island, connecting the Northern and Southern Harbours. The road is pretty steep, providing the panoramic view from the top of the island. This road sometimes gets kinda bad, making a temporary interruption (I got it on my first visit to the island). At the top is Hon Son waterfall, but you can only see its beauty during the rainy season.
There is also Thanh Sơn Garden (entrance fee 50,000 vnd/ pax) on the top. Like its name, Thanh Son is like a decoration garden for photography purposes only, there’s nothing more special. There’s a farm named Phú Quang building nearby (2021), hopefully opening for visitors when it’s finished. The top provides a view to the Southern Harbour, highlighting the big reservoir at the center.
Bo Beach (Bãi Bò)
This beach is close to the Bấc harbour, with the signature figure of turtle painting on the big rock. Some budget guest houses to book like Island Homestay, Homestay Beach, Hòn Sơn Seaview. All are close to the beach, reasonable prices and friendly host.
Bang beach (Bãi Bàng)
This is the best beach on the island with the long sandy beach. You should buy at least some beverages like coconut (40,000 vnd) instead of “service charge” for entrance. The host also offers boat tours for fishing and snorkeling.
Golden Camp Hon Son
This is the best campsite on Hon Son island, Kien Giang. I stayed here for 4 days and had most of the experience at night here. Down to the sea is a small sand beach full of rocks, where you can do a swim and free dive to explore marine life. Staff is so friendly and helpful, and we had an amazing time playing and talking. I love this and highly recommend this campsite for camping enthusiasts and nature lovers. You got best of both world here.
Along with Bãi Bàng, this is another sandy beach, good for swimming. From here you may see the colossal electricity columns line from the mainland.
Phuong Breakfast Bistro (Điểm tâm Phượng)
This is just like any breakfast store, but I mark it as a point of interest because this is near the entrance to the hiking trail toward Ma Thiên Lãnh summit. So you may like to have breakfast like me here or pack some drinks before the trip to the top. This bistro also features a view to the sea and is very romantic at sunrise. There are cute doves flapping around as well. The food is good, around 35,000 vnd/ bowl of seafood noodle. That’s pretty delicious!
Protruding rocky platform
It seems there will be a building situated here, but for now (2021), it is just a rocky and plain platform, where you can pitch a campfire and enjoy the panoramic view.
Sao Bien coffee and homestay
A good spot for sunset watching and nightlife in Hon Son island.
Ma Thien Lanh trail entrance
Out of the coffee store, toward the town, you will see a fork: Turn right and the other entrance to Ma Thien Lanh peak on the right, marked by an old lady vendor. Buy her some stuff and she will help you guard the bike if any.
Back to the Sao Bien coffee, keep going on the coastal road down to the town. The journey around the island ends.
Hon Son island accommodation
The travel accommodations on the island are pretty cute: the original campsite that seduced me to stay for days, there’s also a lifestyle hostel great for breakfast. I love every inch of the island and you may spend a week here actually despite its limited dimension. For convenience, I collect all contact and booking links here for reference and price check.
The Southern Harbour
Like Nam Du or Hon Tre, the tourist hub is a stone’s throw from the harbour. This is where you can find good accommodation like several Hon Son island hotels in line with other coffee shops and bistros, along with every service available to meet traveler’s needs. This area has the most density of accommodation on the island, price is various.
Nhà Nghỉ Vân Tiến – The guesthouse located on the coastal road and has a good view to the sea. Check the price now!
Nhà nghỉ Bảo Hân – the guesthouse is at the heart of the town, close to the Superdong ticket and central park, just a stone’s throw to the night market. Check the price now!
Nhà nghỉ Yến Linh (location/phone)– guesthouse is on the coastal road, few step from town market. Friendly host with reasonable price (250,000 vnd/ single room).
Fishing Village Residence – Hon Son homestay
Rái Cá homestay (location/phone/page)– One of the pioneers brought the concept of hostel/ homestay to this pristine island. Located by a cliff in the southwest of the island, so I see it does make sense to buy a beer and snack and enjoy the sunset here. The homestay is developed into a complex, including a bar and restaurant. You can have a delicious breakfast here.
Sake homestay – The homestay is located at the heart of the village and pretty confusing to reach at first. The room is comfortable, overviewing the cape far away with the spectacular sea landscape. Check the price now!
Nhà nghỉ Kim Anh (phone)- A guesthouse inside the fishing village, it’s actually a coffee shop which also serve breakfast, the local people have drinks on daily morning. There’s a foodstall opposite selling vegetarian meal. Friendly staff.
Hon Son island resort – Northwest area
There are local resorts that lie quietly from the road, which you have to walk down on steep slopes paved by stacked rock to turn into the lifestyle stairway. The price is mid-range to premium and the facilities like the bar or beach in these ones mostly are closed only for the hotel guests.
Nhà trọ Tám Ca (website/phone)- Good seaview, no hot shower yet, quiet ambience, rocky beach. Food is good, mid-range price.
Nhà nghỉ Bãi Đá (phone)- The thumbs-up are the sandy beach and seaside view. But service charge for cooking food is also pretty high if you travel on a budget. The staff is generally reviewed unfriendly.
Norther Harbour – Bãi Bắc – Bãi Bò
This quiet area features a couple of cute and budget-friendly accommodations to book, such as:
Thanh Duyên homestay (location/phone/website): this accommodation is very close to the entrance trail route to Ông Rồng mountain top.
Bấc’s Homestay (phone/location): Friendly host, clean and well-decorated rooms with common lounge for guests, but the seaview is limited.
Thương’s House (phone/location): brand new homestay in the area (2021) with white appearance. Well-decorated with styled furniture. Friendly host with good service. Seaview in some rooms.
Hòn Sơn seaview (location/phone): The guest house is located near the Turtle Rock, friendly host.
Bang Beach
Bai Bang resort – This resort features the most beautiful beach on the island. Check the price now!
Ma Thien Lanh Trails
Sohara Seamountain Bungalow (aka Lamien Lodge & Homestay or Mango House) – This bungalow is located on a very steep slope, so you should have a xe ôm (taxi motorbike) to ride you up. Heavy luggage would be punished hard, that’s a warning. Check the price now!
At the Eastern edge of the Southern town
Sao Bien Homestay & Coffee – This accommodation is also a beautiful coffee shop, great to watch sunset and the Southern town from far away. Check the price!
Hon Son beaches
Bo beach (Bãi Bò, Bãi Bấc, Bãi Bắc)
This beach is next to the Northern harbour. The sand is nice but some places are dotted with small rocks. The area full of public coffee and restaurant so you may enjoy a good price here
Bang beach (Bãi Bàng)
This is the best beach on the island, now closed inside a local resort. There’s no entrance but visitors should buy something instead, like a coconut.
Xep beach (bãi Xếp, bãi Cây Dừa Nằm)
There are strange lying coconuts here which the name refers to. There’s also a resort here so the entrance fee is to buy some stuff.
Hon Son harbours
Along with the sandy beach, some areas on the island have shallow waters enough for safe swimming like around the harbours. In the afternoon, children play in the water near the site. They swim and dive, as well as collect some kinds of seafood.
Hon Son waterfall
If you love to find the waterfall, better find it the the top of mountainous road in the rainy season, as it’s “hidden” in the dry season (I didn’t see it at all, as there’s no water at all).
Hon Son hiking trails
There are two note-worthy hiking trails in Hon Son that I would definitely recommend you to experience. Depend on your schedule on the island to take one or both hikes below (one per day should be best):
For the breakfast, you may have noodle at the homestay or traveling to the harbour or residence nearby for very reasonable food, such as a bowl of macaroni (nui) like this.
If you are around the Southern Harbour, I bet you will come across a bistro which serve the rice with grilled pork ribs (sườn nướng) and Steamed Egg Meatloaf (chả trứng hấp) like Cơm tấm Sài Gòn. If you can not consume the local taste food, this one is the best option. The price is mid range. (45,000 vnd/ dish)
A little snack for lunch while I was pedaling around the Southern town. This stall is located near the reservoir, selling fried chicken and milk tea with super cheap price (for poor student on the island, I guess. I travel around Vietnam and there are two area usually experience the local price: market and school)
Mountain chickens are the specialty on the island and you should have the dish when hiking to Ma Thien Lanh summit, where people feed chicken and hot serve. The cooking process may be disturbing so to avoid the killing sound and long wait, you had better call the booking number to arrange a meal beforehand.
Some homestay complex like Rái Cá homestay serving food and drink all day also.
Nightlife on Hon Son island
Most of the time at night I spend on coffee, bar and night market along the coastal road part in the South.
I watched the sunset at Sao Biển homestay & coffee, this place also the best spot to observe the town from far above.
The night market is crowded and has more vendors on the weekend. There’s an old lady selling smoothies outdoors here and I was her customer mostly every night, enjoying the fresh sea breeze and the starry sky.
Rái Cá homestay is a good place for hangouts at night. There is even a bar newly opening nearby, just a stone’s throw away, named Quán nhà An. I had a chance to attend the opening, drink some cocktails and sing some songs along with an acoustic guitar band. The vibe is awesome. Highly recommended!
The best itinerary for a trip to Hon Son
Itinerary for weekends in Hon Son
Office workers with fixed time may prefer to spend two day on the weekend. So you should start from the Friday (or extended to Thursday)
The night before: Departure from Saigon to Rach Gia on sleeper bus like Phuong Trang busline or take flight to Rach Gia airport in the early morning and transit to Rach Gia ferry port.
Day 1: Take a ferry from Rach Gia – Hon Son. At the Southern Harbour, you should call the host for transit to the homestay or hotel. Remember to get the return ticket at the Superdong office here, if you haven’t bought it. On day: Visit Bãi Bàng or Bãi Xếp – the best beaches on Hon Son, swimming and having coconuts. Then moving to the North for Bãi Bấc. In the sunset, ride to the view spot near the fishing village or Rái Cá homestay (or Sao Biển coffee), these are among the best spots for sunset on Hon Son island. Dinner time: visit the Southern Harbour for the best food stall available. Strolling around the town or visiting the bar near Rái Cá homestay or coffees.
Day 2: Watching sunrise in Bãi Bàng, Bãi Xếp or Golden Camp Hon Son. Then have breakfast in Phượng breakfast, ready for the hiking to the Ma Thien Lanh summit. It should take you around 3 – 4 hours. After finishing, you should check-out, have lunch near the harbour and be ready to embark on the express ferry back to Rach Gia.
(Day 3: in case you have an extended day
You may spend time on the mountainous road and fishing village, as well as another hiking trail to Ông Rồng summit near Bãi Bò)
Itinerary for a week in Hon Son
Day 1: Take your time at the homestay first, eat full and enjoy the beach nearby.
Day 2: Visit The Best beaches on Hon Son like Bãi Bàng, Bãi Xếp. You can book a boat tour here when traveling in a group.
Day 3: Watching sunrise on the Eastern side of the island. Have breakfast and hike to Ma Thien Lanh summit. Enjoy the sunset in Sao Biển coffee.
Day 4: Explore the mountain road: the homestay, the Thanh Son garden, the waterfall. Take your time on the trail to Ông Rồng summit (only 1-2 hour long). Swimming in Bãi Bấc.
Day 5: Visit the fishing village, take photographs, sip coffee in the shop with the neighborhood. Watch sunset in the spot nearby, have dinner in Rái Cá homestay and nightlife at the bar closeby.
Day 6: Take your time at the hotel/ homestay, swimming in your favorite beaches. Have dinner and buy some souvenirs at the night market.
Day 7: Pack the luggage, enjoy the breakfast and coffee. Ready for the trip to express ferry.
Budget reference
Rental bike: 200,000 vnd/ day
Budget-friendly single room: 200,000-250,000 vnd/ night
Coconut: 20,000 – 30,000 vnd
A Glass of Coffee: 20,000 vnd
A Glass of Smoothie: 25,000 vnd
A bowl of rice noodle (Breakfast): 25,000 – 35,000 vnd
Thing to notice: there’s no ATM in the island so cash is king! (On my island-hopping journey, from the nearby Hon Tre, I accidentally found this fact so I had to manage to withdraw money from a Agribank ATM in Hon Tre island. This is the ONLY ATM in the area, even in the main island in Nam Du Archipelago).
What to buy as souvenir in Hon Son island
Dried seafooood! I saw them put under the sun mostly everywhere near a fishing village and residence like Southern and Northern harbour or fishing village in the Southwest of the island.
Even from my eyes, the seafood here looks very fresh and yummy – that best souvenir for your family at home (assumedly your home is in Vietnam). All you need is to walk around the local market at the Southern harbour, where the local sell a lot of these.
How to travel to Hon Son by bike, car, flight and ferry
The island should only be reached from Rach Gia port, so you have to catch a bus, flight or take a road trip firstly from Ho Chi Minh City to Can Tho then to Rach Gia Port. Buy a ferry ticket to Hon Son and get onboard!
To plan the transportation from your location to the island, I recommend checking platform rome2rio to explore various options of airline, busline and ferry so save you tons of time and find out the overall estimated budget.
From Ho Chi Minh
By motorbike/ car
HCMC to Rach Gia
Presumably you were homestaying somewhere around Bui Vien neighborhood (that’s the most famous backpacker hub in HCMC, no doubt), now all you have to do is to ride following Vo Van Kiet boulevard (the scenic riverside route) to Highway 1A to Can Tho city. Turn right and follow Highway 91, then turn left to Highway 80 (for motorbike) or Expressway 02 (for car). The end of these straight lines meets Highway 61 (there’s also Rach Gia airport nearby), so turn right, following Nguyen Trung Truc street, then turn right again in the big Phan Thi Rang roundabout to 3 Tháng 2 street. Go to Cống Sông Tiên and the ferry port should be on the left hand.
If you don’t have a motorbike yet, only staying at HCMC for a week or so, renting is a good choice.
For rental motorbikes, the options are a dozen, you may reach the receptionists at your hotels, homestays or hostels in HCMC to ask for rental bikes. Or you may go directly to some motorbike rental services to get the best suit to your style (from semi manual, scooter, to real manual and big displacement motorbikes).
For rental car, there is a good app named Mioto. Better give it a try first.
By bus
I prefer the big operators for their most convenient service: they have wide transits. Transit gets you to the station, you get on a bus to Rach Gia station and ask for transit to Rach Gia ferry port (Cảng Rạch Giá). There are names like Phuong Trang busline (futabus) or Kumho Samco busline to consider. Check Rome2rio for best bus price and options.
By airline
Bamboo airline now offers the route Tan Son Nhat airport (Saigon) – Rach Gia airport flight for less than one hour. Check out the latest price and schedule on 12go.asia.
After landing on the Rach Gia airport, you can wave for taxi or motorbike taxi (xe ôm) to the Rach Gia ferry port. The distance is around 11km, so the fee for a taxi car should be approximately 150,000 – 200,000 vnd, motorbike taxi 100,000 – 150,000 vnd.
From Da Nang
There’s no direct flight from Da Nang Airport to Rach Gia airport yet: you had better take a flight from Da Nang city to Ho Chi Minh airport, then transit to Rach Gia airport city and transiting to Rach Gia ferry port like aforementioned suggestion.
From Ha Noi
There’s no direct flight from Noi Bai airport to Rach Gia airport (only transit to HCMC): you can check schedule and price as well as self-connect options via 12
In Hanoi, to save money, you can take airport bus number 86, departing from Ha Noi railway station to Noi Bai airport and vice versa, only 35,000 vnd/ pax – the cheapest transportation for solo travelers; traveling by group can book four-seater or seven-seater car for 200,000 vnd).
Express Ferry Rach Gia <-> Hon Son island
For the schedule and price, check rome2rio for up-to-date information to save time.
More information Rach Gia – Hon Son speed ferry route and Superdong online booking at Superdong website
Check the website for promo: from time to time, the ferry operator offers free of charge shipping cost for motorbikes if you buy a couple of tickets. I noticed a poster for this kind of promotion for the route Ha Tien – Phu Quoc.
Belows is my short review on the Superdong express ferry departing from Rach Gia then Hon Tre island en route to Hon Son.
The staff will distribute you a bottle of water (sometimes it has an interesting taste) along with an alcohol tissue to wash your hands to prevent the covid (do not wash your face). The cabin is equipped with a fixed monitor displaying movies for entertainment.
When the ferry is offshore for around 5′, you can stay on your seat within the air-conditioned cabin or go out to the airy lounge at the back of the ferry. Be noticed that the wind is pretty strong there so it had better hold the things carefully or they may be blown away into the blue sea.
The lounge is my favorite spot whenever I am on the ferry. I can enjoy the breeze and birds above the blue sea with a majestically panoramic view. When the ferry is approaching close to the island, the sea is dotted with fishing boats traveling back and forth.
The ferry only stops for mere 5 minutes so activities at the Hon Son harbour are hustle generally, so remember to have ferryline staff and porters to collect all your luggage (in my case it is my bike).
There’s a refreshment stall at the back of the ferry by the door to the lounge. The price is fixed on the same kind: 20,000 vnd for beer, 15,000 vnd for soft drink, cup noodle for 12,000 vnd; other snacks for 5,000-6,000 vnd.
If you travel by cycle, the handling cost (getting the bike on and off the ferry) is 40,000 – 50,000 totally.
The Superdong ticket office on Hon Son island is located on the right at the first crossroad, opposite the park. It’s not big so you may take a little time to find out.
Unique experiences to expect at the most popular beer street in the capital, with all the chaos around 200-meter-long hub: Ta Hien street, located at the heart of the Old Quarters, just a stone’s throw away from the legendary Hoan Kiem Lake.
It seems every glorious backpacking city has its own hub to celebrate the nightlife. In Vietnam, the list is quite long. Not to mention the busiest seaside roads of the popular coastal cities like Vung Tau, Nha Trang,… or several well-known islands such as Phu Quoc, Cat Ba, Bui Vien street in Ho Chi Minh city is definitely a must for nightlife fans. And its renowned counterpart in Hanoi – “beer street” Ta Hien (Vietnamese: Tạ Hiện) also worths a visit in your trip to the capital of S-shaped country.
Quietness at Ta Hien street on day
Why you should visit beer street Ta Hien?
As one of the most vibrant places for nightlife in Hanoi, the narrow street Ta Hien houses clusters of pubs with their own craft beers, a variety of Hanoi street foods such as Nem chua, Vietnamese bread and noodles and amazing vibes of the throbbing and full of laughter and music.
Guests are expected to sit freely on the plastic tables and chairs. But in some unexpected (and LoL memorable) moments, the local waitresses call loudly “police, police” then wrap up – in few seconds – all the tables, with the food and (sometime) with the small burning stove to make barbeque or heat soup.
No beer as usual, but a glass of sweet sấu dầm
About the food (and price) in Ta Hien street?
The common reviews for culinary delights here are mostly positive. Some travellers even have amazing time, when they start the cook-it-yourself meal with a can of margarine on the table to grill the food on a pan covered by aluminum foil (which will be changed once it gets burned).
Average price for local bottled beer is 30,000 vnd while some main courses range from 70,000 -150,000 vnd. Vegetarian stuff is also available. Howevet, be awared that the price may be subject to change (mostly “rise”) during holidays. Best tips: Look out for frequent promotions.
Bad side of the “holy alley”
Good for the nightlife enthusiasts but Ta Hien is not for everyone. Chaotic, crowded, super hot in summer (great for cold beer, of course), also overwhelming and (sometime) overpriced, there is hardly quiet corners to go deep and slow here.
Nouvelle cuisine? Nah! It’s simple: plastic table and chair, quick-served food and craft beers, smoke and noise. There you are!
That’s why some sightseers merely pay a visit to beer street Ta Hien only for its vibrant ambiance, then head to the other areas in Old Quarters for dinner or coffee chill.
If you do love to admire the peace of the famous street, there’s no better chance to have a seat on day, like my lastest visit to Ta Hien with my beloved girlfriend. We sat comfortably at front of a lovely coffee and ordered a couple of Sấu dầm (dracontomelon juice) – a Hanoi specialty, one of my favorites and a “must” everytime I travel to the capital.
A coffee space without any guests
Ta Hien now looks less busy than before covid-19, partly due to the severe impacts of the pandemic. Doors closed, some even available for rent. The lockdown on the city occurs from time to time, causing the local business to wither more and more away, but owners are still striving every day, in hope of the better days coming soon, at least back to the golden age.
What makes your trips memorable? Adventures, Food, Attractions or People? For me, it’s people who I met in Laos fatefully inspiring me to travel more and more by their stories.
Willfrid
A traveler from French, who visited New Zealand as working holiday visa, which I’m aiming for.
He told us his story. He loved soccer, and premier league was his favorite, so he wanted to learn English. And then he applied for working holiday visa of New Zealand.
Landing on a strange country with no English, but after 6 months making efforts to learn day by day, he could finally well communicate with local people then deciding to extend visa for 6 months to travel across NZ. He also showed us the destination used to film Lord of the Ring series (Hobbiton, right?).
His love for travel starts from a very common reason: hating 9-5 circle, as he said “people get up everyday, go to work, back home, then prepare for the next day, go around at the weekend then it’s monday again” and “I don’t know what I should do”.
So the 18 months in NZ changed his mind so much, now he’s studying aerial engineer and wish to work for Emirate.
Willfrid emphasized me that the best way to learn new language was to face it everyday. And the first 6 months he studied in local school was to solve language problem, then it’s done and he enjoyed the life.
Nicole on the right
Nicole
Another French who cycles around the world for 3 years, with his girl friend (we didn’t meet her in Laos).
The most cool stuff is his modified cycle, which allows him to ride very comfortably. (I did think I should learn to create one to travel the world, LOL!)
Nicole reminds one thing: to be a decent travel blogger, you have to make a very very INTERESTING things, and he had done well with actually two aspects: his cycle and his journey.
Hope Nicole finish his journey, I still follow his fanpage for updates.
You can take a visit him at frogsonwheels.net (he has just changed to a very eye-catching theme, wow!)
Ming is at the center
Ming
A Taiwanese woman cycling through Vietnam, China, Lao, Cambodia. We first had a short talk with her on the way to Phonxavan. She was tanned by the sun, covering her head with a red checked scarf, all luggaged put at back with plastic-proof.
She told us that she could only keep pace at average 60 km/ day due to mountainous terrain and Laos possessed many zig-zag passes, differing from China, where straight slopes were omnipresent.
And for the most interesting, she didn’t use social media and hardly updated on blog. Well, it seemed she could pay whole attention to every details on roads.
She reminds me of my dream to bike around the world years ago. Yes, crossing border with cycles is much easier than motorbike (in my country, a traveler rider are doing his trip on his own motorbike and it’s such a time-money-comsuming journey. However, it’s still very cool!
Isaac
My buddy – Isaac
Well, he’s totally planner-in-chef of our Lao trip. Full-time rider and human windshield also (he blocked all strong winds against us on roads, well, LoL).
We all had crysis of youth, fed up with routine of 9-to-5 and really thought a getaway was the best solution. It’s proven to be a right choice eventually.
Together, we made effort to conquer challenging passes, celebrating every milestones at rest stop with our favorite energy drink M150, enjoying delicious local food, playing bargain game, taking photographs for each other, riding in a pitchblack lonely night from Vang Vieng to Vientiane, dealing with polices and sharing back up charges on Viet – Laos bus.
Simply, he’s a great travel partner.
Leon – Mokdovan
the 23-year-old traveler made me surprised when he set up a hostel in Luang Prabang after a long journey. I saw many pictures in frame hung nearly every walls in the hostel, most of them are smiles of people from India, Nepal, Laos,… His guide for any points of interests in the town is super clear and details, you would know most of places to go after 5′ presentation! Yeah !
Leon proves me that at very young age, you can do what you want, if you love it definitely!
Last but not least, it’s a Vietnamese community which supports us eagerly.
It’s happy to hear Vietnamese spoken overseas. This is my most pretty trip that I ate Vietnamese food in Cambodia stop, stayed in Vietnamese hostel in Vang Vieng and be helped by Tuan – a Vietnamese boy in Vientiane. Everyone was so friendly and supportive. A big thank to them. It’s warm and welcome so much.
A trip around the world is definitely an awesome experience but someones of us reject the idea with common excuses to travel.
Though I am a solo traveler, sometimes I still invite my friends to travel with me when they confide that the the rat race ruins their life, and they are not actually living but existing, which is a inevitable bridge to hell, and they just want to hit “escape” button.
However, all I receive are just excuses below:
1. Study – “I love travelling, but university is my dream, so, thanks”
It may sound crazy but I know some bloggers study to travel. They learn hard, try to score a decent scholarship, and fly to the country, spend time studying then traveling in the breaks.
This is a sustainably slow travel that you can add qualifications into your resumé while tripping, and when you turn back home for a professional career, it’s easy.
2. Work – “I’ve got to build a sustainable career, and travelling overseas would steal my chance”
How you define a dream job? Good salary, social reputation or high value network, etc. You’re right, if they are really what you LOVE. I know some not bitten by any travel bugs, and staying at home is their optimum choice, but if you possess a heart of adventurous journeys, just put it in right track, for your sake.
Turning your journey into a SUSTAINABLE CAREER is definitely best way to lead a satisfactory life that you’re not ever regretful. Be a sailor, tour guide, dive master, electric engineer, photographer or like me, a travel blogger, … just be creative and persistent. I know that every thing sets out f*cking hard, but it’s worthy, just look back to the rat race, and you have reason to follow the lifestyle.
3. Relationships – “You’re kidding, my family won’t let me do” or “my boyfriend/ girl friend threads to break up”
This is a typical excuse, even I also got trapped at first, but gradually I learnt to deal with them successfully, of course with a lot of tear drops if you’re kind of sentimentality.
Our family loves us, so they seek to keep us Safe from the DANGEROUS WORLD (it’s ironically the world is safer than we worry at home). I was reluctant for a long time due to my family, but then I slowly realized that we could compromise to follow our heart while easing beloved people.
Just show them your travel plan, make trips with friends, keep in touch via social platforms and everything you can come up with to prove that travel is safe and you’re alright, if something happens, you know how to deal with it, your last resort in some bad situations,…
And for love, space is a challenge. If you believe your relationship is incredibly inextricable, you will have a chance to test how strong it is. I know there will be millions of teardrops down, but do you want to know whether a forever love exists?
4. Money – “Simply, I don’t have money”
Ok you win. But listen, most of us never have enough money to do anything we’d love to right away, so we SAVE and WORK.
Maybe you look down on people who accumulate every bucks every day, but after a year, those pennies become a fortune that funds them entire a year of travel. Some choose to score oversea jobs to travel, the opportunities are endless.
So if you’re planning to save and take off, remember to cut off unnecessary stuff, little entertainment, limit your eat-out, train your cooking ability (an interesting method to ease stress FYI, especially with your favorite music).
Working oversea sometimes requires some certain certificates. Go for them, and your can fund your trips while take care of the career sustainably!
I know this would be a hard time for everyone, and your life will turn boring at the beginning, saying goodbye to familiar routines is like climbing Mt Everest, but when your adaptive ability is developed, you’ll get used to it and acknowledge the meaning of minimalism. Don’t worry!
5. Making friend – “I cannot make friend with strange people”
So you just like me, an introverted person, solo traveler, travelling alone countries by countries and it’s so pity that I could not start conversations with strangers at the beginning.
But It’s okay, my friends. We’re not hero afternight, but most of heroes even learn to overcome their obstacles and push forward. You should travel with a friend, a social butterfly, who is a bridge connecting you and the rest of the world.
You should also put yourself in attempts to open your heart, getting started with ones who share your interests. I usually talk about trips, my favorite destinations and listening to answer from the opposite, and when I see similarities, I’m just stick to it, and most of those talks go overnight.
6. Food – “You know, I taste the local food, but they’re so weird, I prefer my favorite at home, also, no allergy”
Ya, for allergy, make sure you prepare some note/ signboard in local language (using google translate, easily) and show it to the cook in restaurant. Done!
I know some countries offer a long list of weird food but what about the other, the local can consume it, so can you, except for allergic ingredients. Also, you can learn to cook if the taste is not as you expect, and share your dish with other guys. Who will reject those delicious offers?
7. Language – “I don’t speak local language, how I can do it”
We have bad and good news. Here’s the bad “digesting a new language is the hardest task in the world”, and good news? “We can learn it”.
Learning basic phrases to trade and greetings is not a big deal after all, but it’s very effective in daily context. In Lao trip recently, I and my partner learn Lao while we lazily rode via quiet mountains and practised as much as we could at local market.
It’s mispronounced at first, maybe you have to be back to English sometimes, but you will improve the linguistic ability by the time. Then the local will gradually be impressed and you’re warmly welcome.
8. Solo – “Travel solo scares me out of my mind”
You can choose whether solo or with friends, which depends on your style. Actually, solo travelling doesn’t mean you have to do all on your own, it’s so lonely. Instead, you just have your own plan of where and when to stay, then just go with the flow, ask to join the other group, which is very surprising sometimes due to unexpected experience.
If you’ve never travel solo, just give it a try. You’ve never known what you love until you do it, practically! So don’t be scary, people are willing to help.
9. Safety concern – “Is it safe?”
No, haha, but it’s great. If you’re not kind of adventurer, then just an ordinary traveler, it’s okay, no big deal.
So how to minimize the risk? Stay at home, but even that, you’re still not safe: traffic accidents, catastrophes, terrorism, next-door dogs (just kidding !!)… blah blah, so the risk is quite equal to all over the world, except Middle East, right?
Just take it easy, make a plan, contact anyone who can help you at the destinations, via your facebook networks, your friends, your friends-of-friends, some local-traveller connectors like couchsurfing,.. get the contact and make sure you can reach them in need, that’s all!
The last resort is to manage to the embassy to have their value support due to your citizen rights. I’m so lucky that I’ve never had to get to embassy, but when you’re in trouble, you know ones to call.
10. Reluctancy- “Sound great, but I’ll travel later”
Reluctance is the greatest enemy of the pioneers and travelers, I mean if you love a girl, you’ll be lonely forever if you just “I will tell her I love her, later”. Understand?
If you love travel, just embrace it, give it a room, feed your travel bug with a bucket list, plans to travel there and deadline (you’ll be likely to love this kind of deadline, woohoo).
So don’t travel later, just I’m going to travel to [your bucket list destinations] on [your flight date] and go for it. Just do it!
11.
12.
…
1001.[your excuses here]
Every excuses you will find out exact answer from experienced travelers, but follow your heart or continue living a boring life, it’s you choice! If you’re not ready to travel, then stories from people travelling may make a bigger impact on you
One of the most exciting adventurous roadtrip I’ve ever made. It’s quite dangerous if you’re not well-prepared so I note some important tips help you to finish it !
Gasoline station
When planning, we thought that the route was very long and tough, stiff uphill, and the fuel would be much more consumed than usual, the gasoline station might be rare because of mountainous terrain.
However, when we were on road, we found out something:
The gasoline were quite close to one another, just 30-50 km, so no need to bring a back-up fuel container. And even if there was no nearby station, you can buy gasoline at mostly groceries in villages, at higher cost.
Road condition: rough and muddy, challenging and relaxing
There are two directions from Kasi to Luang Prabang city: follow 4/4C highway and you get extreme biking experience – sharp curves and steep roads, both and stick to highway 13 via Phoukoun for much relaxing riding.
At first, we followed highway 4 and it was so much challenge: heavy rains, erosion, big deep holes on road and low temperature condition, especially when wind blowing strong made it extremely hard to handle. And we fell off on road, sliding 4-5 meters away, a van passed by but there’s not collision. We were lucky. We get muddy but nothing broken or bleeding.
We were lucky. We get muddy but nothing broken or bleeding
Since then, we rode more carefully. More and more tough the route was. Once there’s a heavily eroded part on road forcing me to walk and my partner slowly moved over. It’s very cold and wet. My body kept shaking.
The second erosion, where we nearly reach the peak, was much more worse. There was even a local team with technical vehicle to flatten the road so that traffic flow was enabled. So adventurous it was, I even saw a cliff by my side.
When we headed back from Phonsavan via highway 13, everything was more easier. The main problem was just dense fog at certain height, when you’re down, it gets clear.
Your bike condition
Another problem we faced was our rental bike. Though we had checked and done some fixing, it’s still very worn-out to carry both of us climbing over high and slippery slopes, while suffering a lot of hole-hitting on road. After the trip, he deserved a praise.
If you wish to do a roadtrip like us, please have your bike checked thoroughly for your own safety.
Temperature
It’s a little bit cold, around 20 celsius degree at peak, with heavy rain. We only put on rain suit to block wind and keep our body warm, just shaking a bit when strong winds blew through.
After all, you need to keep dry because wetness will make it more terrible.
Beside the majestic natural landscape that could take your breath away, Ha Giang is also the home of various ethnic minorities with their indigenous tradition and culture that await to explore in a homestay experience like nights in this H’mong village in Meo Vac.
Mr Isaac (left) was working while Ms Trang Hinh was posing at the homestay veranda
Slow-travelling coupled with homestay experience is a fantastic idea: you wake up early in the morning and take a deep breath and stroll around to enjoy the spectacular surroundings, before sipping hot coffee to get ready for a new day coming.
Wake up early in the morning and take a stroll around
Working. Travelling. Reading new books at leisure. It depends on your plan for a few days there. You may even request a seat to join the local’s meal, everyday, along with informative conversations about the lifestyle, traditions as well as cultural aspects.
The entrance of the H’mong homestay village in Pa Vi, Meo Vac. Photographed by Trang Hinh
So when my travel buddy Isaac suggested a homestay village in Pa Vi, Meo Vac, I was really eager to explore.
In fact, homestays are usually scattered here and there, and every host has his/her own stories to entertain guests. So a WHOLE village doing homestay business really sparked me.
Which homestay is your choice?
I did homestay in Dong Van town, but not ever in Meo Vac. How did they do and whether it was “same same but different”, or there would be anything new revealed unexpectedly. Our plan was simple: overnight in a homestay and have dinner with the host.
The first call from Isaac to a homestay, which used to host him months ago, returned an unexpected response to our budget travel lifestyle: the price was far above the range we were willing to pay.
So I did a search on both map app and booking platforms, the results were better. So we called and confirmed the booking, but the host refused to cook dinner. So we came up with a fusion: stay here but order dinners somewhere else but in that village. It worked!
So we had a cozy night, full of indigenous food like local beef soup (Thắng Cố bò), dried pork (Thịt lợn gác bếp) and veggie stir-fried with onion (rau xào tỏi). The food got chilled quickly due to the low temperature at night so we rushed to finish a bit. But it was still yummy and got us full.
Homestays capture the characteristic architecture of the H’mong ethnic with a double-tiled roof, brick-and-mortar wall, wooden pillars and dry stack stone fence
We came on a weekday, so the atmosphere was kinda quiet and we enjoyed all the sense of solitude ourselves. Isaac told me that the village was wide awake on the weekends and holidays, as both tourists and locals gathered to celebrate, sing and dine in groups.
On some special occasions, the festivals would likely be held in the community cultural house with massive attendants. So it seems I should have another date with this village.
After a good sleep in thick blankets, we were welcomed by the comfortable chill in the air that morning and eager to have a cup of coffee for ourselves. Isaac was working while I did a stroll around the village to sightsee every corner.
Most of the homestays capture the characteristic architecture of the H’mong ethnic with a double-tiled roof, brick-and-mortar wall, wooden pillars and dry stack stone fence, while the others are upgraded to modern aesthetics with cement walls painted to look like natural wood and iron gates.
There is a huge parking lot at the main entrance to the village with a guard booth, but on weekdays, guests are allowed to ride into homestays (the internal streets are so narrow that they are almost suitable for walking and riding small two-wheeled vehicles.
This village is connected to the general electricity network, so the facility remains very stable and guests are hardly annoyed by the loud noise of the family-run generators in remote regions.
On some special occasions, the festivals would likely be held in the community cultural house
Besides, it is also designed with three separated areas named A,B and C, linked by paved internal streets, giving a sense of the urban planning development like metropolitan neighborhoods.
Some might argue that this modern structure would destroy the local culture. But from my point of view, during days riding around the mountainous provinces of the North, a well-planned infrastructure indeed improves the local living.
Many travelers, both Vietnamese and foreigners, praise the region for its beauty of the spectacular landscape and rich culture, but ignore the harsh weather and poor soil for cultivation – “the beauty of poverty”.
The improvement in facilities really offers us a comfortable experience, an add-on after rough rides with dense mist, low temperature and slippery roads by rain.
You can meet many H’mong people in this area and have a meal with them. Meo Vac Clayhouse seems like a dominant homestay as it occupies a cluster of buildings and offers all-in-one experience for guests with a wide array of services including accommodation, coffee, herbal baths and massages, cocktail bars and a souvenir store,… yet the price is premium.
There are mostly 20 homestays in total with various styles in this area, so take your time!
A cozy night in the H’mong homestay village Pa Vi during holidays (All below pictures was photographed by Isaac on January 2021).
Rental bike means sometimes you get caught by local traffic police. I did once in Vientiane, and tried to deal with it. Below is my story and some tips, hopefully it’s useful for you.
The last day in Vientaine, after an extreme bike trip from Phonxavan, we took a visit That Luang and Patuxay. While we were stopping at an intersection, a police officer pointed at us, look like we just wrong lanes. However, he possibly saw our confusing and thought we were foreigners then waved us toward their booth.
As usual, he asked for our papers, of course, we didn’t have bike license because of bike rental but we did have a international biking license . We had experienced the similar situations before, so consciously asked the reason why we got caught, what we’d done wrong? (we knew riding without a license was illegal, but what about the other).
However, he insisted on pointed at the booth like we had to park our bike there and get fined. My friends said in Lao “we don’t speak Lao, we speak Vietnamese”, so he turned to his few Vietnamese. Suddenly he sneakily took our bike key. Ok, he won!
This is like a typical bribe situation in Vietnam, as well. So this is how I dealed with:
After having our key, they aggressively wrote a paper to push us to pay fine 200,000 kip in a certain office (I didn’t even receive an address) and forced us to sign the paper, my friend did it and I couldn’t stop him on time. Ok, police won second time.
Note that, the fine paper usually includes 3 pages, one (official, written in ink) is kept to check the number of cases, one for you to pay your fine, and one for data storage. However, they wrote in only one paper like a receipt without any duplicate paper below. That’s so specious. I knew they were acting, but it’s okay.
I tell you one thing when you face the similar problem: you have the right to delay the fine until you understand clearly your situation and how much you should pay, whether the officers are authentic or fake by asking for their identity (they do have as they ask yours),… so if a right officer will explain clearly the reason why he stops you, have a genuine identity, blab blab blab.
My advice is to try to delay and make everything clear, your penalty reason, the officer identity,… while deciding whether you would bribe him or contribute to that country national budget.
Another things you should show them is you have time, don’t rush, don’t act like you have few minutes left for flights,… act like you have a day, and willing to talk friendly.
After minutes acting, the older officer (who speaks very few vietnamese) waved us back to the booth for negotiations.
“200,000 kip and take your bike back to hotel”, said he.
“Sorry but we don’t have 200,000 kip, 100,000 kip only, we run out of money, this is our last day, we spend all money,…”
“150000?”
“We only have 100,000 kip, please”
“…”
“Ok, deal!” I put money on the table and he covered them with the note book. Done. The deal was closed.
Of course I could have better deal, at 100,000 kip, or the best, 50000 kip, maybe (Tuan, the receptionist in hostel advised me to bribe them only 50000 kip in case getting stopped). However, it depends on certain situations.
The less power they have, the more money you could save.
In my case, the officer had taken the key, so we couldn’t get the bike in any circumstances, they have more power in this negotiation. I also unconsciously revealed that we’re on last day in Vientiane (emergency). He had 2 advantages. So he had more power to deal high price.
150,000 kip was spent in Laos for traffic police, a perfect piece in our Laos travel experience.
I know some people get angry when they’re stopped by polices, but you always have right to know whether what you’ve done is wrong, and decide to bribe or do legally.
For me, bribing is like a negotiating game, a chance to train your bargain skill, you aim for the best price, you have advantages/ disavantages and the other have the same. Try to make a perfect deal and have fun. That’s travel!
For the last, I even gave them a smile and said “thank you” in Lao. I had a good deal, they had money. And it’s a games.
I sum up some tips when you face traffic polices:
Always bring important papers (licenses) to show police: I suggest only bring copies in your wallet, in worst cases, you can get back to hostel to get the genuines if it get serious. It reduces the possibility you lost paper due to robberies on street.
When getting stopped, be friendly and politely ask the officer for their identity first, then the reason why they want you. Show your paper but don’t give them immediately. Possibly they will use them against you, force you to bribe them.
Instead, try to make it clear as much as possible: who are they, their identity cards, what wrong you’ve done, (if you firmly know you violate rules, how much you should pay, any alternative payment options, where you pay, when deadline is, is there any more convenient options,…).
If you decide to pay for your violation, then you have all information in need.
If you decide to bribe, take your time, collect all information, your advantages/ disavantages and theirs, then ask how much you can get it done. Of course, the very first number is like hell, but you have right to bargain for the better. I usually start from the half of what they offer, then, depends on your power, you can finish your deal at your wish.
The key is patience, persistent and appropriate manner.
So you’re backpacking Vang Vieng, a heaven for outdoor adventure, stunning landscape of caves, waterfall and ranges of mountain? This post is for you
Accomodation
We stayed in Chillaos hostel, quite a great place, we had a nice breakfast, enough for an active day, a billiard pool and soccer table to have fun together.
Free Breakfast of Chillaos
There’s no lounge but a space like a restaurant, just a few books on shelf. The shared bathrooms were clean and well-equipped, only for 5 usd/ person.
Sunset over potholes on the road
Biketrip
Vang Vieng is really a great destination for short bike trips around the town. The roads like trails, so rough, potholes but very pure nature. I did love our biketrip in the rain, while sunset shine over head. It’s simply breathtaking, it’s beautiful !
The gasoline price is higher than the capital, fixing service is available widely. If you can not afford buggy trips, then bike trip is also a good alternative.
Vang Vieng is also a popular spot for 2nd bike sale. A lot of sale sticky posts on the hostel wall. Many of them are bought in Vietnam. Price ranges 200-400 usd/ bike.
Buggy drive crossing the wooden bridge
Activities and Attractions
There are a lot of adventure games in Vang Vieng, but most of them are at a cost: Balloon, paramotor, buggy drive, rock climbing and tubing – the most famous.
I read an information revealing getting on a balloon in Vang Vieng considered is very dangerous because of the lack of safety warranty. Is there anyone review it?
We also missed Blue Lagoon due to time limit. It’s quite pity but I don’t think it would be beautiful in rainy season.
To play all Vang Vieng, you need a big chunk of money. They are really suitable if you want to hold a teambuilding contest.
Also, the weather also should be considered thoroughly, we saw a balloon ascending in a foggy day, which means you can not see anything beautiful while paying around 80 usd/ flight. Tubing in a flood sounds dangerous not adventurous anymore.
Kaeng Nyui waterfall
If you wish to spend less, there are some low-budget options: you can access Kaeng Nyui waterfall for 10000 kip/ person, and sinking enjoyably into water flowing strongly over a cement trail like a mini dam. Elephant ride is also available but you shouldn’t join it for natural violation concern.
The wooden bridges crossing river the opposite river bank cost 10,000 kip. They are very romantic.
Signboard leading to caves
On the other side bank, there are a lot of caves to explore, most of them charge entrance fee about 10,000 kip, collected by locals (I think there’s no agencies working in these caves but the local purposely do)
We also met a group of local playing spots at the end of Ex US airport, I think you could join them.
For ones loving religious destinations then a temple at the center will be a good place to find quiet moments in your soul. But I think Vang Vieng is the best for outdoor adventures.
https://instagram.com/p/BWqrxKnFgqL
Food
We tasted some specialties here: Boiled bamboo shots, Larp (a mix of veggie and buffalo meat), with a special sauce. I didn’t enjoy them at all.
There are three popular street foods in Vang Vieng: Fruitshake, pancake and burger, around 10,000-20,000 kip/ dish. I also saw a foodstall selling fruitshake for 5,000 kip. Fruiteshake of Vang Vien is a bit not as sweet as those of Vietnam.
There are also other dishes, I found a good restaurant opposite Army barracks guesthouse, they cook very delicious dishes, I had a wonderful Pad Thai (we’re late so fewer choice), 20,000 kip/ dish, it worths every pennies. Below is a page of menu, hopefully it’s useful. I also note a Korean restaurant offer 15,000 kip in market.
Note: Instant noodle is called “Wii Wii” in Laos
Small note for smokers
I saw a warning “ DO not smoke in the street… you have to pay pine of 5 million kip” but you can do in bars, just not on street.
